The root with surprises: celeriac

Celeriac is a weird looking vegetable, whiskery and knobby, with tendril-like roots that hug the bulbous root. But whack into its tough exterior and you'll find a clean, crisp, white flesh that tastes of celery, anise and hazelnuts. Sometimes called celery root, this root vegetable is not as sweet as a carrot or parsnip and is far less starchy than a potato. Overall, its flavor is celery-like, but softer and deeper than the stalks for which it is named.

Most often, celeriac is shredded and dressed with a tart mustardy mayonnaise for the classic French celery root rémoulade. It's also terrific when boiled and mashed in with potatoes to serve with pot roast or porketta, or layered into a gratin with plenty of cheese. Cube and toss it in with roasted vegetables and it will become nicely tender-crisp. It's especially good paired with the sweet earthiness of winter squash or sweet potatoes. Slice and bake it in a slow oven with a little butter or olive oil and a sprinkle of coarse salt until it becomes soft for a fine side dish to roast chicken.

Look for celeriac near the other root vegetables at your store. Choose ones that are heavy, firm and feel solid. You'll need a good strong chef's knife to cut away the rough skin and tuft of stem.

First, trim off the tendrils, then start by cutting a slice off the top and bottom of the bulb, as if peeling an orange. Slide the knife along the sides to slice off the skin off as you go. Make sure you remove all the roots at the bottom. The stalks and leaves, if still attached to the root, resemble celery but are far stronger, so use them judiciously to season soups and stews. Celeriac tends to darken once cut, so toss with a little lemon juice if you're planning to serve it raw or in a salad. Lemon juice also helps to tenderize the starch.

Serves 4 to 6.

Note: Ready in minutes, these are a healthful alternative to French fries. You can make them ahead and hold them in a warm oven. Be warned that they're so finger-licking good, you may find yourself eating the whole batch before they're served (so go ahead and double the recipe). From Beth Dooley.

• 1 large celeriac root

• Pinch paprika

• Pinch cayenne

• Pinch cinnamon

• Coarse salt and black pepper

• Parsley for garnish

Directions

Peel the celeriac and cut into long, thin sticks.

Heat the oil in a large pan over medium-high and add the celeriac sticks and toss to coat with the oil. Cover the pan, reduce the heat and cook until the celeriac is just tender, about 10 minutes.

Remove the lid and sprinkle the celeriac with the paprika, cayenne, cinnamon, salt and pepper, tossing to coat. Continue cooking, turning frequently, until the sticks have browned on all sides, about 5 to 10 minutes.

Remove, sprinkle with more salt and adjust the seasonings and serve right away with the lemon wedges or place on a parchment-lined baking sheet to hold in a 300-degree oven until ready to serve.

Calories100Fat9 gSodium45 mg

Carbohydrates5 gSaturated fat1 gTotal sugars3 g

Protein1 gCholesterol0 mgDietary fiber1 g

Exchanges per serving: 1 vegetable, 2 fat.

Beth Dooley is the author of "In Winter's Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.