Star chef McKee remaking Il Gatto
If he were a director of Broadway musicals, Tim McKee would be developing a reputation as a show doctor, a skilled professional who is called in to turn troubled productions into long-running hits.
McKee, the state's first James Beard Award-winning chef and co-owner of La Belle Vie and Solera in Minneapolis, worked his magic last summer, transforming the Guthrie Theater's chief restaurant into the popular Sea Change. Now he's turned his talents to revamping Il Gatto, the Italian restaurant that Parasole Restaurant Holdings launched late last fall to replace 25-year-old Figlio.
Returning to Calhoun Square is a homecoming for McKee; his first real cooking job was in the Figlio kitchen. McKee has recruited longtime La Belle Vie colleague Jim Christiansen to run Il Gatto's kitchen. They've been slowly instituting upgrades over the past two weeks, remaking the menu's small plates, pizzas and salads; they'll continue until the entire menu has been rebooted, probably within the month. "We're adding a sense of adventure to the menu," said McKee.
That means succulent chunks of cured swordfish, like the dreamiest canned tuna imaginable, served with wedges of colorful heirloom tomatoes. Or thick slices of house-made pancetta, hot off the kitchen's wood-burning grill and dressed with juicy Mission figs. Or a meaty octopus tentacle, charred by the grill's intense heat and resting on tender white beans and stewed peppers. Or smartly topped plate-sized pizzas. My favorite? A variety of brightly crunchy radishes, dressed in a light anchovy-citrus vinaigrette. It's rustic McKee food at Figlio -- sorry, Il Gatto -- prices.
Figlio regulars will be pleased to learn that a small selection of the restaurant's classic dishes will be returning, including calamari and a tortellini that McKee drolly recalled making hundreds of times during his tenure on the Figlio line. "They're blasts from the past, but they stand the test of time," he said.
- Rick Nelson
'Son of Anarchy' in Minnesota
Ron Perlman portrays the den father of a grizzled motorcycle gang on FX's "Sons of Anarchy." But his most unlikely role was his real-life stint as a University of Minnesota grad student.
Q: How did you end up getting your master's in theater in Minnesota?
A: I grew up in New York City and went to the City University of New York in the Bronx. While I was there, I accumulated $6,000 to $7,000 in parking-ticket fines and I had no resources to pay that. Then these brochures started circulating and there was one for the University of Minnesota. Well, I thought, nobody will look for me there. Most New York cops don't even know Minnesota is in the union.