SWEET-CORN TIPS, FROM THE EXPERTS

FARMERS MARKET FRESH

"You can tell by the freshness of the cuts on their stems how long ago corn was harvested -- the fresher the cuts, the fresher the corn. The cobs should feel and look moist and plump, with the kernels inside fat and shiny; press against the husk and you should be able to feel the kernels within. The silk of the corn should also be a little sticky and should look glossy, stiff and moist. Sweet-corn kernels contain a greater proportion of sugar to starch than any other vegetable, but as soon as it is picked, the sugars in corn begin converting to starch, reducing sweetness. Corn loses 25 percent of its sugars within around 24 hours of harvest; corn should be cooked as soon as possible, for the sweetest, most flavorable results. Store corn, in its husks, in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days only."

• From "The Produce Bible" by Leanne Kitchen SUMMER IN THE FREEZER

"Fresh corn can be frozen for up to six months. The texture and flavor suffer slightly, but it's still well worth the effort -- home-frozen corn is always much better than commercially processed corn. Cook and freeze when corn is fresh, to retain as much sweetness as possible. Shuck corn [retaining some husks] and boil it on the cob for 2 minutes. Cool cobs under running water or in an ice bath and pat them dry. With a sharp knife, cut the kernels off the cob. Line the bottom of a freezer container with husks, add a layer of corn, and alternate until the container is full. The husks divide the kernels into portions, so it's easy to defrost just the amount [needed]. "

• From "How to Break an Egg" by the editors of Fine Cooking magazine A MODERN CREAMED CORN

"In experimenting with different vegetable juices one day, I discovered that heating corn 'juice' caused it to thicken quickly, due to the nature of cornstarch. This led to a modern interpretation of the creamed corn I loved as a kid. Using a box grater, grate the kernels from 5 ears of corn into a bowl. Press the grated corn through a fine sieve, reserving the 'milk' and discarding grated corn and cobs. Cut kernels from 7 ears corn. In a medium pan, combine kernels, 1/4 cup water, kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Cover the pan and steam over medium-low heat, stirring once or twice, until the corn is tender, about 5 minutes. Drain, then set the corn aside. Stirring constantly, bring the corn 'milk' to a simmer over medium heat in a medium saucepan. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, continuing to stir, until the 'milk' thickens, about 3 minutes. Add the cooked corn, salt, pepper and 2 tablespoons room-temperature butter and cook until corn is heated through. Serve warm."

• From "Think Like a Chef" by Tom Colicchio