royal lodging

Pestana Palace: The rooms are spacious with serious interior design at this spot, part of the Leading Hotels of the World group. The grounds should inspire many explorations. Doubles from about $272 (

Pousada de Obidos: Most of the rooms in the castle are relatively small, but you may be inspired to don a suit of armor and boil some oil to pour over the battlements. Doubles from $270 (

To learn more: Portuguese National Tourist Office (1-646-723-0200 [dial 3 for tourism];

Alice Short