GETTING THERE

From January to March, Northwest offers direct flights to the town of Liberia near Costa Rica's Pacific coast. Last week, Continental was advertising round-trip fares (with connections) to Liberia for as little as $600. Costa Rica's biggest city, San Jose, has the country's other major airport.

GETTING AROUND

The roads are rough and signs are few, but some turistas brave them in rental cars. Opt for the bus or one of several shuttle services that connect towns and parks with low-priced fares, about $48 from San Jose to Monteverde, for example (www. costaricashuttleservice.com).

WHERE TO STAY

In Monteverde, I stayed at the Hotel Fonda Vela, a tastefully furnished resort with rooms for about $100 a night. The upper-level bar has a veranda with views that extend to the Gulf of Nicoya, at least 50 miles away (www.fondavela.com). At Arenal, I stayed at the Arenal Observatory Lodge, with unobscured views of the volcano and trails that lead into the national park. Rates range from $58 to $150 (www.arenalobservatory lodge.com).

CURRENCY

Costa Rica is the most expensive country in Central America. One U.S. dollar equals about 500 colones, the local currency. In tourist areas, costs for food, taxis and lodging are comparable to those in the United States.

GUIDE SERVICE

I hired a guide/driver through Preferred Adventures of St. Paul. Costs vary depending on group size and itinerary, but figure on about $100 per person per day (www.preferred adventures.com).

CHRIS WELSCH