Samuelson calls it quits What a bummer: After a 5 1/2-year run, jP American Bistro (2937 Lyndale Av. S., Minneapolis) closed last week. Chef/owner J.P. Samuelson said his business finally succumbed to a blizzard of challenges.

At first glance, it's the economy calling. "Fine dining is something people can eliminate in their budgets," he said. "And you know what? They have."

But there are other factors. Ever-escalating property taxes ("with the state cutting aid to cities, the city has to make up the difference somehow," he said) triggered a big gulp of a rent increase at a time when a seemingly endless remake of both Lyndale Avenue and Lake Street slowed traffic to a trickle. Competition has heated up in the past few years, as well.

"It's not a blame game; it's the reality," said Samuelson. "In the end, we could never catch up. If you're a small independent restaurant, you just don't have the financial wherewithal to weather the storm. I don't wish this on anyone. Unfortunately, I don't think we'll be the last."

Another closing Callister's Farm in the Market in the Midtown Global Market (910 E. Lake St., Minneapolis) also has called it quits. Co-owners Alan and Lori Callister had a bright-idea concept, a kind of year-round farmers market that offered meats, poultry, cheeses and other farmstead products from several dozen Minnesota and Wisconsin family-owned farms. The Callisters will continue to sell their top-quality beef and chicken from their West Concord, Minn., farm on Saturday mornings at the St. Paul Farmers Market, 290 E. 5th St., St. Paul.

New on the St. Croix Justin Grecco has great timing. The Bellanotte and Afton House Inn veteran has launched his Grecco's on the Saint Croix (115 N. Washington St., St. Croix Falls, Wis., 1-715-483-5003) just in time for the peak autumn leaves season.

Grecco is changing the menu every week at his cozy restaurant, housed in the former Dam Bistro. Last week's dinner menu included Swedish meatballs over penne, herb-roasted guinea hen with an apple chutney, seared scallops with roasted squash and an apple-currant tart. Grecco also prepares multi-course tasting menus (four courses $35, six courses $50 and nine courses $85). The lunch menu -- salads, sandwiches, a few entrees -- also changes weekly.

RICK NELSON