Call it the burden of expectation. Restaurants are always subject to this weight as they attempt to align diner expectations with food-and-experience reality. The biggest danger comes when hopes for a new restaurant are particularly high -- perhaps because it seems especially promising in terms of location, decor and cuisine. The Lowbrow falls into this category, and unfortunately comes up short.

My hopes aren't dashed quite yet. The cheery enthusiasm of this new burger-and-beer joint goes a long way. Now it's time for a few more elements to take the restaurant the rest of the way.

Owners Heather Bray and Jodi Ayres have stellar intentions. They don't seem intent on capitalizing on the "Lowbrow" name in a gimmicky way, like serving hamburger goulash or gourmet TV dinners. Instead, they're all about locally farmed, sustainably grown food, and they're intent on making sure vegetarians and celiacs are just as happy as carnivores.

Sometimes it can just be a matter of ordering the wrong thing. In the case of the Lowbrow, we tried three times, first getting the homemade fish sticks ($11.75), then the Old Blue burger with blue cheese and bacon ($9.75), and finally, a collection of appetizers, like the deviled eggs ($2 each). Each time, the food was OK, but not great. The fish sticks had good texture with a panko coating, but the seasoning leaned toward an Old Bay Seasoning blend. The burger was somewhat overcooked, and the snacks were not terribly memorable.

Brunch was low-key and relaxing. For $21, we got chorizo breakfast tacos, two coffees, a small pile of rosemary potatoes and an Elvis sandwich (grilled sourdough bread with bananas, peanut butter and bacon -- we held the bacon, saving $2). While nearly $10 for two small tacos was steep, the overall value of the brunch was good. The Elvis was simple and satisfying, the tacos had a satisfying chorizo kick and a bit of good guac, and the potatoes were simply prepared and properly done. And kudos to the Lowbrow for offering brunch on Saturdays as well as Sundays, a rarity around here.

The restaurant's bear logo is scruffy and adorable, conveying a welcoming but edgy vibe. The vaguely retro bear pairs well with the art inside -- a mural that seems like a cute paint-by-numbers North Woods scene, until you notice the little cabin is actually on fire. With an exposed ceiling and ductwork, the open space carries a kind of loft-like groove. It's a sweet, friendly place with a cozy feel. Service is spot-on, with cheery waitresses who seem to actually care about how you like the food.

I wanted to love the Lowbrow, I really did, but on the second and third visits, the same types of issues persisted. If they could yummy up the food, turn the music down when the dining room gets crowded and keep expanding the beer list, it would be a whole new ballgame.

The churn

The authors behind "Minnesota Lunch: From Pasties to Banh Mi" will appear Saturday at Cooks of Crocus Hill in Edina (3925 W. 50th St.) from 10 a.m.-noon and the St. Paul location (877 Grand Av.) from 1-3 p.m.

  • The Heavy Table team writes about food and drink in the Upper Midwest five days a week, twice a day, at www.heavytable.com.