If you drink a Tripel Karmeliet, Tilberg or Urthel, thank Lanny Hoff.

Hoff's Minneapolis company, Artisanal Imports, is the exclusive importer of those and nine other Belgian beers for the entire United States. The guy knows his Kwak. And, because of his contributions to the craft during his 15-year career, in September Belgium's brewers' guild inducted Hoff into the Knighthood of the Brewers' Mash Staff.

"They've got kind of a guild, called the Chevalier du Fourquet des Brasseurs," he said. "I'm an honorary knight, which means that I'm not a Belgian brewer."

Belgium is a country the size of Maryland. Its geography has created a hodgepodge of culture, where the winemaking of France intersects with the brewing history of Germany, Britain and the Netherlands. Using all kinds of ingredients, Belgians create wide-ranging beers that often defy definition. No one can describe Belgian beer in a nutshell, and that, Hoff says, is what makes it great.

"The concept of style never really took hold in Belgium like it did elsewhere," he said. "When you go to Germany or Britain you have really codified styles. There are exceptions, of course, in both places, but in general, a German brewery is going to make a very similar lineup of beers as the guy down the street. But what happened in Belgium was this kind of free-for-all where you combine the culinary aspect of wine with brewing and access to all these ingredients that are coming through. What you get is this perfect storm of creativity.

"So people are making beer that's uniquely their own beer. A good example of that is one of our breweries, Bosteels, makes three different beers that we sell (Kwak, Tripel Karmeliet and Deus). They're not at all alike. There's no house character whatsoever. They could not be more different. They believe that each beer should stand on its own. It's a very different approach."

As Hoff's career attests, the art of Belgian beer is not something easily understood. It takes years of research, testing and experience. For the uninitiated, Hoff advises courage. Don't be intimidated by the sheer variety of Belgian beers. Get some advice and dive in.

"Go to a place like the Bulldog, the Muddy Pig, the Happy Gnome, the Blue Nile, talk to the bartender and try something in the bar. Because that's where the beers are going to be. And try something, figure it out," he said. "You get into IPA, you can always take comfort because if it says IPA, you know you're getting something that has some framework for it. As it should be. But with Belgian beer, you never, ever know what you're going to get.

"There's something that I think Americans discount: They think that if a brewery tradition is rich in history, then it's somehow frozen in time. But nothing could be further from the truth. Everyone in Belgium who makes good beer is trying to make it better. And they're moving forward all the time. Ingredients get better. The scenery gets better. They understand more and more about the process all the time. They strive for consistency but if it doesn't happen, it's not the end of the world."

The churn

Area restaurants and chefs are supporting the Make-A-Wish Foundation of Minnesota at the group's culinary fundraising event, Delicious Wishes. More than 10 chefs will prepare food and share tips at the gala. (5-9 p.m. Nov. 4. All Inc., 185 W. Plato Blvd., St. Paul. Tickets start at $50. www.wishmn.org.)