Lakefish platter at the Lexington
Chef Jack Riebel channels memories of childhood visits to Lake Superior to create the ultimate Minnesota nosh platter ($16), one that glorifies smoked freshwater fish in three different but equally tempting approaches to whitefish, salmon and trout. Don't miss it.
1096 Grand Av., St. Paul, 651-289-4990, thelexmn.com
Foie gras "royale" at Grand Cafe
It's eggshell as tableware, one that's carefully filled with a silky foie gras custard and topped with palate-cleansing pops of tangy crème fraîche and fragrant orange zest (that hint of tobacco can be traced to Gitanes cigarettes, a sly nod to the kitchen's French intentions). It's the opening salvo ($9) on chef Jamie Malone's menu at the Grand Cafe, and it's one heck of a salutation.
3804 Grand Av. S., Mpls., 612-822-8260, grandcafemn.com
Flourless chocolate chip cookie at Bellecour
Sure, it's easy to rattle off the riches — the bouillabaisse! the pot-au-feu! the steak tartare! the onion soup! — produced in chef de cuisine Nick Dugan's kitchen, but what I often find myself craving from Wayzata's spectacular newcomer is this palm-sized treat ($3). Crinkle-topped and chewy, it's brazenly chocolaty, and pastry chef Diane Yang folds in a small (and thoughtful) secret: The flour-free formula is a present for the sweet tooth of her gluten-averse boss, Gavin Kaysen.
739 Lake St. E., Wayzata, 952-444-5200, bellecourrestaurant.com
Mushroom tart at 510 Lounge & Private Dining
It's tempting to hail the kitchen's caviar service. But singling out that Twin Cities rarity wouldn't do justice to chefs Don Saunders and Daniel Keenan, because while they clearly have a knack for sourcing top-shelf ingredients, they sure can cook, beautifully. A fine example of their considerable skill sets is this elegant, deeply flavorful tart ($18), an ideal antidote for a cold winter's night.
510 Groveland Av., Mpls., 612-315-5841, 510mpls.com
Whole fish at Young Joni
Because Pizzeria Lola founder Ann Kim is at the helm of this standard-setting newcomer, ordering pizza is a no-brainer. But don't overlook the pinnacle of the kitchen's wood-burning stove, a nightly grilled whole fish. You'll encounter whatever's ultra-fresh and in season — red snapper, Spanish mackerel, Branzino — cooked simply, over glowing coals. It's an affectionate nod to Kim's mother's table. "That's how I grew up eating fish," she said. "Mom would put it in the middle of the table, and we'd all eat."
165 13th Av. NE., Mpls., 612-345-5719, youngjoni.com
Chicken Parmesan at Red Rabbit
The dish that chef Todd Macdonald refers to as "Italian schnitzel" ($18) might not be a beauty contest contender, and its not-so-dainty scale could easily turn off the bigger-isn't-better crowd. But neither traits should be a deterrent, because this made-for-two plate is a dream, a pair of pounded chicken breasts that are all tender juiciness under their crackling breaded coating that's enriched with plenty of Parmigiano-Reggiano and smothered by a lively, complex tomato sauce. If only all comfort foods paid such close attention to textural and acidic contrasts.
201 Washington Av. N., Mpls., 612-767-8855, redrabbitmn.com
Ham, egg and Cheddar sandwich at Wise Acre Eatery
My 12-month quest for the Twin Cities' tastiest breakfast sandwich concluded when I stumbled onto this beauty ($13), served daily from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Chef Brianna Baldus makes excellent use of two farm-fresh (literally, they're from the restaurant's acreage in Plato, Minn.) basics: hefty slices of fat-streaked ham and luscious, protein-rich eggs. That Cheddar? It's a five-year-old beauty from Wisconsin, and the toasted, milk-enriched bun comes from St. Paul's St. Agnes Baking Co.
5401 Nicollet Av. S., Mpls., 612-354-2577, wiseacreeatery.com
