All-Purpose or Chipotle Brine Makes 2 quarts.

Note: Brining in a resealable plastic food storage bag uses less liquid than it takes to fill a large pot or bucket. It's easy to squeeze out the air and keep the bird submerged. To make the bag more stable, rest it inside a large bowl.

• 2 quarts (8 c.) water, divided

• 1/3 c. salt

• 3 medium garlic cloves

• 1 bay leaf

• 10 whole black peppercorns

Directions

Combine 1 quart water, salt, garlic, bay leaf and peppercorns in a 21/2 -gallon resealable plastic food storage bag. Seal the bag and shake it gently to dissolve most of the salt.

Add the remaining 1 quart water and poultry. Seal bag and place in a large bowl, then open the bag just enough to force as much air out of it as possible. Seal tightly, making sure the poultry is completely submerged, adding water as needed.

Refrigerate, massaging the bag every so often to turn the poultry over and distribute the flavorings evenly.

Brine for at least 8 hours or overnight for whole chickens (about 4 pounds); 4 hours for chicken pieces or Cornish hens; 2 hours for boneless chicken breast halves.

One batch of brine is enough for 1 bird or 2 Cornish hens or 4 pounds of chicken pieces. One-and-a-half batches of brine will be enough for 2 chickens or 4 Cornish hens or 6 pounds of pieces. (It's necessary only to increase the amounts of water and salt -- not the garlic, peppercorns and bay leaf.)

Variation: For a chipotle brine, add 2 or 3 chipotle peppers en adobo plus 1 tablespoon of the adobo.

Grill-Roasted Chicken Serves 4 to 6.

• 1 whole (4-lb.) chicken, preferably brined

• Freshly ground black pepper

• Kosher salt, if the bird is not brined

Directions

Rinse the chicken with cold water and blot it dry on paper towels. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board; fold the wingtips under the bird and truss the chicken.

To truss the bird, start with a 30-inch piece of kitchen twine. Place the bird on its back. Cross the legs and loop the middle portion of the string around the end of each drumstick and then tie the legs together. Tie a half-knot. Pull the ends of the twine over the center of the breast. Flip the bird over onto its breast and loop the twine under and around the wings to keep them flat against the chicken. Pull the ends of the twine together and tie a knot. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for no more than 30 minutes.

Season the chicken with pepper and, if the bird is not brined, salt to taste.

Prepare the grill for indirect grilling (see box).

Cover the grill, then open the bottom and top vents if using a charcoal grill. Maintain the temperature in the grill between 300 and 350 degrees. Roast for 60 to 75 minutes, until the chicken's internal temperature reaches 175 degrees at the thickest part of the thigh.

Transfer the chicken to a platter. Cover loosely with aluminum foil; let it rest for 10 minutes. Discard the twine before carving.

Nutrition information per serving (of 6, unbrined):

Calories480Fat27 gSodium210 mg Carbohydrates0 gSaturated fat8 gProtein55 gCholesterol175 mgDietary fiber0 g

Barbecued Chicken Pieces

Serves 8. Note: The chicken can be finished an hour in advance and served as is, or kept warm in a low oven.

• 5 to 51/2 lb. chicken pieces, such as drumsticks; bone-in, skin-on thighs; bone-in, skin-on chicken breast halves -- 12 to 16 pieces

• 11/2 c. barbecue sauce, plus more for serving, divided

Directions

Combine the chicken pieces and 1 cup barbecue sauce in a jumbo (21/2 -gallon) resealable plastic food storage bag. Seal and massage to coat evenly; marinate for 30 minutes at room temperature.

Prepare the grill for indirect grilling (see box).

Remove the chicken from the bags, discarding any leftover sauce. Place each piece skin-side up on an area of the grill that is not directly above the briquettes or a lit burner.

Cover and maintain the temperature inside the grill between 300 and 350 degrees.

Transfer the chicken to the indirect-heat side of the grill. Cover and cook for 35 to 40 minutes, until the chicken's internal temperature reaches 155 degrees for white meat and 165 degrees for dark meat (chicken will not be cooked through). Use 1/4 cup remaining barbecue sauce for basting; cover and cook for 10 minutes over indirect heat.

Move the chicken pieces over direct heat, baste with the remaining 1/4 cup sauce and cook uncovered for 1 to 2 minutes, until the internal temperature has reached 165 degrees for white meat and 175 degrees for dark meat, turning the pieces often to avoid flame-ups.

Transfer the pieces to a platter and cover loosely with aluminum foil; let rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Variations: If you wish to brine the chicken before grilling, the chipotle brine is preferable.

Or use either the Herb Mix or Red Rub on the chicken before grilling.

Nutrition information per serving (using total of 1 cup sauce):

Calories470Fat26 gSodium330 mg Carbohydrates4 gSaturated fat7 gProtein52 gCholesterol165 mgDietary fiber0 g

Red Rub Makes 21/2 cups.

Note: This is great for chicken, beef or even fish (salmon, swordfish, tuna) that can hold up to its boldness. If you are using it for chicken, you can measure out what you need and add a little ground sage to it.

• 1 c. sweet paprika

• 1/4 c. smoked Spanish paprika

• 1 tbsp. chipotle powder

• 1 tbsp. dried thyme leaves

• 1/4 c. chili powder

• 1/4 c. garlic powder

• 1/4 c. onion powder

• 1/4 c. kosher salt

• 1/4 c. sugar

Directions

Combine all ingredients; mix well. Store in an airtight container until ready to use.

First rinse poultry with cold water and blot dry with paper towels. Transfer pieces to a large bowl and coat evenly with 6 tablespoons of the rub before grilling.

Lightly spray the rubbed or herbed pieces with nonstick cooking oil spray; season with freshly ground black pepper and salt to taste (use the latter if they haven't been brined). Transfer to the grill; cover and cook for 40 to 50 minutes, until the chicken's internal temperature reaches 155 degrees for white meat and 165 degrees for dark meat (chicken will not be cooked).

Move the chicken over direct heat; cook uncovered for about 10 minutes until the chicken's internal temperature reaches 165 degrees for white meat and 175 degrees for dark meat, turning the pieces often to avoid flame-ups. The skin should be nicely browned and crisped.

Nutrition information per tablespoon Red Rub:

Calories25Fat1 gSodium720 mg Carbohydrates5 gSaturated fat0 gProtein0 gCholesterol0 mgDietary fiber2 g

Herb Mix for Chicken

Makes 11/4 cups Note: Tailor this herb mix to your taste. This recipe calls for rosemary, oregano and thyme, but feel free to use other herbs, such as tarragon and sage, or to adjust the proportions as you see fit. Salt and pepper aren't included, as they may be sprinkled on meats, chicken or fish before cooking or added in the brining process. Omitting them from the herb mix avoids the risk of overseasoning.

• 1 bunch green onions, white and light-green parts, chopped (1 c.)

• 1 c. packed parsley leaves

• Leaves of 6 large sprigs rosemary ( 1/4 c.)

• Leaves of 6 large sprigs oregano (1/4 c.)

• Leaves of 8 sprigs thyme (2 tsp.)

• 2 tbsp. chopped chives

• 4 medium cloves garlic (or to taste), chopped

• 1/4 c. plus 2 tbsp. olive oil

Directions

Combine green onions, parsley, rosemary, oregano, thyme, chives and garlic in a food processor; pulse 10 to 12 times, until finely chopped. Transfer herb mix to a small bowl and stir in the oil. Use immediately, or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Use your fingers to carefully loosen the chicken skin. Spread about a tablespoon of Herb Mix evenly under the skin of each piece, allowing some of it to get on the outside. Lightly spray chicken with nonstick cooking oil spray; season with freshly ground black pepper and salt to taste (use the latter if they haven't been brined). Transfer to the grill; cover and cook for 40 to 50 minutes, until the chicken's internal temperature reaches 155 degrees for white meat and 165 degrees for dark meat (chicken will not be cooked).

Move the chicken over direct heat; cook uncovered for about 10 minutes until the chicken's internal temperature reaches 165 degrees for white meat and 175 degrees for dark meat, turning the pieces often to avoid flame-ups. The skin should be nicely browned and crisped.

Nutrition information per tablespoon Herb Rub:

Calories40Fat4 gSodium0 mg Carbohydrates1 gSaturated fat1 gProtein0 gCholesterol0 mgDietary fiber0 g