COCONUT FUDGE

Makes about 48 pieces.

Note: Years ago I purloined this velvety recipe from my Aunt Mary, the family's candy expert. Freshly grated coconut was de rigueur in her kitchen, but unsweetened dried coconut works well, too.

• 11/2 c. dark brown sugar

• 1 c. granulated sugar

• 1/2 c. unsweetened cocoa powder

• 1/8 tsp. salt

• 3/4 c. undiluted evaporated milk or half-and-half

• 2 tbsp. light corn syrup

• 4 tbsp. unsalted butter

• 11/2 tsp. vanilla extract

• 1 c. freshly grated coconut or 1 c. unsweetened dried coconut

Directions

Have ready a candy thermometer, wooden spoon, pastry brush and cup of hot water to brush sugar crystals from the sides of the pan.

Lightly butter an 8- or 9-inch square metal cake pan or baking dish and set aside. Combine the brown and granulated sugars, the cocoa and salt in a heavy 3-quart saucepan. Stir in the milk or half-and-half and the corn syrup, mixing until well-combined.

Place the pan on medium-high heat, and cook, stirring until the sugar is completely dissolved. Bring the syrup to a boil, cover the pan and boil syrup for 3 minutes.

Remove the lid. Dip the brush in the water and brush down the sides of the pan. Attach the candy thermometer inside the pan. Cook the syrup, without stirring, but occasionally swirling the pan, about 10 to 12 minutes or until the thermometer reads 236 to 238 degrees, frequently brushing the sides of the pan with the damp brush.

Remove the thermometer. Turn the heat off from under the pan and swirl in the butter and vanilla extract. Remove the pan from the stove and set the pan on a wire rack.

Cool the fudge in the pan for 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the coconut and immediately pour the fudge into the buttered cake pan, taking care not to scrape the bottom of the saucepan, which may be sugary.

Cool the candy completely, at least several hours, and then mark in 1-inch squares. Remove the candy from the pan, place on a chopping board and cut into pieces.

JAMAICAN GINGER PRALINES

Makes about 2 dozen pralines.

Note: This New Orleans favorite hails from West Africa. I discovered a ginger-infused version in Jamaica in the magical hands of a street vendor. It is a bracing delight. This recipe requires fast hands; consider inviting a friend or family member to help out.

• 2 c. granulated sugar

• 1/2 tsp. baking soda

• 1 c. buttermilk, at room temperature or 2/3 c. plain yogurt thinned with 1/3 c. warm water

• 2 tbsp. light corn syrup

• 2 tsp. powdered ginger

• 2 tbsp. unsalted butter

• 1 tbsp. dark rum or 1 tsp. vanilla extract

• 11/2 to 2 c. shelled pecans or walnut halves

Directions

Have ready a wooden spoon, candy thermometer, pastry brush and cup of hot water to brush down sugar crystals from the sides of the pan. Also have handy 2 tablespoons to use for dipping and dropping the candy.

Line 3 baking sheets with parchment paper or foil, butter generously and set near the stove on a counter or table. (Don't use wax paper; the candy will stick to it.)

Clear the range top of all pots and pans so that you have plenty of work space. Chop the pecans coarsely and set on the stove.

Combine in a heavy 3-quart saucepan the sugar, baking soda, buttermilk or yogurt, corn syrup, ginger, butter, rum or vanilla extract. Place the pan on medium-high heat and bring the syrup to a boil, stirring until the sugar is completely dissolved, for 6 to 8 minutes, if needed.

Then, cover the pan and boil the syrup without stirring for 3 minutes. Remove the cover. Dip the pastry brush into the water and brush down the sides of the pan. Attach the candy thermometer to the inside of the pot.

Cook the syrup without stirring until it reaches 225 degrees, frequently brushing down the pan with the damp brush, and swirling the pan.

Quickly scatter the pecans or walnuts over the syrup and continue cooking until the syrup reaches 236 degrees or the soft ball stage and is deep amber in color, swirling the pan as the syrup cooks.

Watch carefully, because the candy cooks quickly at this point and can burn.

Slide the candy off the hot burner. Remove the thermometer. Add the rum or vanilla extract and butter, and swirl the pan until combined. Then move quickly to the work area.

Using the 2 tablespoons and, working quickly, scoop the candy with 1 tablespoon and use the second spoon to push the candy onto the baking sheet, dropping the candies about 2 inches apart. You will probably need all three baking sheets.

If the candy in the pan begins to harden, stir in a couple tablespoons of milk or cream, place the pan back on the turned-off burner, turn the heat to medium, stir briskly, and when the candy is smooth, drop by tablespoon onto the baking sheet.

Place the baking sheets with the candy on wire racks, set in a cool place and let stand until firm and crunchy and the consistency of hard fudge, at least an hour or longer.

The pralines can be stored in airtight containers for a week or so.

PEANUT BRITTLE

Makes about 1 lb.

Note: This is an old family favorite that today is also made with pistachio, almond and cashew nuts, but the peanut variation still reigns supreme in this kitchen.

• 2 c. unsalted peanuts, preferably in shells

• 11/2 c. granulated sugar

• 1/2 c. water

• 1/2 c. light corn syrup

• 2 tbsp. unsalted butter

• 1 tsp. vanilla extract

Directions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Shell the peanuts and spread the nuts in a single layer across a baking sheet or jellyroll pan.

Place the pan on the middle shelf of the hot oven and toast until just lightly brown, 5 to 7 minutes, stirring once or twice with a wooden spoon or shaking the pan. Remove the nuts immediately from the oven as soon as you smell them baking or see signs of browning.

Spread the nuts on a kitchen towel and, using your fingers, rub briskly with the towel to remove skins. Do this carefully, making sure that all bits of skin are removed. Set the nuts aside.

Have ready a wooden spoon to stir the candy, a metal spatula for spreading, and a pastry brush and cup of hot water to brush down sugar crystals from the sides of the pan. Butter a 10- by 15-inch jellyroll pan and set aside.

Combine the sugar, water and corn syrup in a large, heavy 3-quart saucepan and mix until well-blended.

Place the pan on medium-high heat and bring the syrup to a boil, stirring constantly, until the sugar is dissolved. Cover the pan and boil the syrup for 3 minutes.

Remove the lid. Dip the brush in the water and brush down the sides of the pan. Attach the candy thermometer to the side of the pan.

Continue cooking the syrup over high heat, without stirring but swirling the pan, until it is golden brown and reaches the hard crack stage, or 300 to 310 degrees, frequently brushing down the sides of the pan. This should take about 10 minutes.

Remove the pan from heat and remove the thermometer. Swirl in the butter, vanilla extract and the roasted peanuts, mixing well. Quickly pour the candy onto the jelly roll pan. Using the metal spatula, spread the candy as evenly and as thin as possible.

Let the candy set until hardened, at least several hours or overnight, and then break into 2-inch pieces.

To serve with ice cream or as topping for a custard, wrap the candy in a towel, crush with a mallet or hammer, and then scatter over the top of the dessert. Store the candy pieces in airtight containers.

Variation: Substitute 1 cup shelled and skinned pistachios, unsalted cashew nuts, coarsely chopped pecans or lightly toasted almonds or sesame seeds for the peanuts. Or use a combination.

COFFEE CARAMELS

Makes 50 to 60 caramels.

Note: I prefer softer caramels, and stop the syrup at 240 degrees rather than let it heat to 245 degrees, which is the traditional temperature for caramels. Remember, though, this candy is still quite chewy, so don't chomp down if you have fragile teeth.

• 3/4 c. heavy cream

• 2 to 3 tbsp. instant espresso powder

• 1 c. light brown sugar, firmly packed

• 1 c. granulated sugar

• 1/2 c. light corn syrup

• 4 tbsp. unsalted butter

• 1/2 c. sweetened condensed milk

• 1 tsp. vanilla extract

Directions

Have ready a candy thermometer, wooden spoon, pastry brush and cup of hot water for brushing sugar crystals from the sides of the pan.

Butter generously an 8- or 9-inch metal baking pan and set aside. Do not use glass; the piping hot candy may break it.

Combine the heavy cream and espresso powder in a heavy 3-quart saucepan. Place the pan on medium-low heat and heat the mixture, stirring, until the coffee dissolves. Add both sugars, the corn syrup, butter and condensed milk.

Raise the heat to medium-high and cook the mixture, stirring, until the sugar is dissolved and the butter is melted, about 5 minutes.

Bring the syrup to a boil, cover the pan and cook the syrup for 3 minutes. Remove the lid. Dip the brush in water and brush the sides of the pan. Attach the thermometer inside the pan.

Cook the syrup, without stirring, swirling the pan by the handle to cook evenly, until the candy reaches 240 to 245 degrees, frequently brushing the sides of the pan with the damp brush. This should take 13 to 14 minutes.

Remove the thermometer. Add the vanilla extract and swirl the pan to combine with the syrup.

Immediately pour the candy into the baking pan. Smooth evenly with the wooden spoon on a metal spatula. Set the pan on a wire rack to cool for 25 to 30 minutes.

Using a sharp knife, mark the top of the cooled candy into 1-inch squares for easier cutting. The candy will still be warm.

If candy is still not firm, let cool for a few more minutes. Then turn the candy out onto a chopping board, top side up. Using a large, sharp, buttered knife, carefully cut into 1-inch pieces, using marking on top as guide.

Spread the candy pieces on a sheet of buttered foil or wax paper and cool completely on wire racks.

For storing, wrap each piece in a square of wax paper or candy wrappers, or place between layers of wax paper in an airtight container.

CHOCOLATE RAISIN BARK

Makes about 40 pieces.

Note: This crunchy layer of bark is topped with raisins, nuts and chocolate; elegant and delightful.

• 2 c. slivered almonds

• 1 c. light or dark raisins

• 2 sticks unsalted butter (1 c.), softened

• 2 c. granulated sugar

• 3 tbsp. light corn syrup

• 1/3 c. water

• 1 tsp. vanilla extract

• 6 to 8 oz. good-quality bittersweet or semisweet chocolate

Directions

Have ready a candy thermometer, wooden spoon, pastry brush and cup of hot water for brushing sugar crystals from the sides of the pan. Set aside a metal spatula to use for spreading the candy. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Scatter the nuts on a shallow baking dish, preferably a 10- by 15-inch jellyroll pan. Set on the middle shelf of the hot oven and toast for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until just lightly brown. Watch carefully and don't allow the nuts to burn.

Remove the pan from the oven and set on a wire rack. Remove half of the nuts from the pan and set aside. Spread the remaining nuts and the raisins evenly on the pan and set aside.

Place the butter in a heavy 3-quart saucepan. Set the pan over low heat and stir the butter until it melts. Add the sugar, corn syrup and water and mix well.

Raise the heat to medium-high and bring the syrup to a boil, stirring until the sugar is completely dissolved, stirring. Cover the pan and boil the syrup for 3 minutes more.

Remove the lid. Dip the brush in water and wipe down the sides of the pan. Attach the candy thermometer inside the pan.

Cook the syrup, without stirring, but swirling the pan, until the thermometer reaches 290 to 300 degrees, and the syrup is deep golden. This should take about 10 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat, remove the thermometer and swirl in the vanilla extract. Immediately pour the hot syrup into the baking pan, covering the nuts and raisins. Using the metal spatula, spread the candy in a thin, even layer.

Carefully transfer the baking pan to a wire rack and allow the bark to cool completely, for several hours.

When the candy has hardened, coarsely chop the chocolate into 1-inch-size pieces. Put the pieces in a heat-proof bowl and then set the bowl in a pan of hot water.

Stir the chocolate briskly until it melts and is smooth. Pour the chocolate over the cooled candy, spreading evenly with a metal spatula. Sprinkle the top with the remaining nuts.

Cool the candy completely and then chill for at least an hour or until the candy is firm and set. Before serving, break the "bark" into 11/2-inch pieces.

Variation: Substitute 2 cups Brazil nuts for the almonds. Toast lightly and then chop rather finely but not until pulverized.