It's midmorning on a quiet Saturday at the University of Iowa in Iowa City. A few students play touch football on the grass of their hilly Hawkeye home, while others test their skill at spear-tossing in front of the Museum of Natural History. In the distance, a young woman tucks her hands into the pockets of her gold hoodie as she crosses a scenic bridge over the Iowa River.

U of I stretches from the 450-acre campus to a popular pedestrian mall nearby into the hilly, tree-lined streets of residential neighborhoods. But don't let the small-town vibe fool you. This is a sophisticated campus, with nearly 32,000 students, a comprehensive medical center and the world-renowned Iowa Writers' Workshop.

Proof of that urbane sensibility is scattered around town, literally. Flooding forced the University of Iowa Museum of Art out of its home in 2008. More than 12,000 works are currently housed in a variety of locations until the new museum opens in a few years. The biggest collections can be found on campus at the Iowa Memorial Union (125 N. Madison St.) and the Studio Arts Building (1375 Hwy. 1 W.), offering everything from ancient African works to modern ceramics. The more ambitious might head to Davenport, an hour's drive away, to visit the Figge Art Museum (figgeartmuseum.org).

The imposing Old Capitol Museum (uiowa.edu/oldcap) has been restored to showcase rooms occupied by Iowa's earliest government leaders. Admission is free.

If you have time for only one museum, though, make it the University of Iowa Museum of Natural History. Housed in Macbride Hall, the three floors of permanent exhibits are enchanting, from the geological and ecological history of Iowa to a 360-degree cyclorama re-creating the sights and sounds of Laysan Island, a western outpost of the Hawaiian Islands in the early 1900s. And you should see the whale! Admission is free (uiowa.edu/mnh).

Fresh-air options

The Iowa City Farmers Market offers two holiday markets to help you take care of your gift-shopping. The markets, featuring woodcrafts, spices, jams and jellies, candles, soaps, lotions and much more, will be held Saturdays Nov. 15 and Dec. 13, from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., at the former Ben Franklin store at 1660 Sycamore St.

The Coralville Reservoir, just 3½ miles north of Iowa City, offers water sports, picnicking, biking and boating and hiking.

Easing separation anxiety

When those young adults say goodbye, you can say hello to some great shopping and pampering options. The Downtown District features a bustling two-block pedestrian mall, plus nearby shops, art galleries and restaurants.

Zenders Salon and Spa offers manis, pedis, facials. Have all three. You'll feel better. (1-319-337-2448; zenders ­salonandspa.com)

AKAR is a gem of an art shop and gallery, with ceramic pottery, scarves, candlesticks, playful and colorful kitchen gadgets and great children's clothing (1-319-351-1227).

At the Iowa Artisans Gallery, the state's talented artists showcase their works in clay, glass, fiber and wood, and star in artists' events throughout the year (1-319-351-8686).

Prairie Lights is a wonderful indie bookstore at 15 S. Dubuque St. (1-319-337-2681; prairielights.com).

Meanwhile, nearby

Mount Vernon, a 30-minute drive from Iowa City, offers antique shops and dining at the popular Lincoln Cafe. (1-319-895-9463)

Where to stay

The Iowa House Hotel, located on campus, is connected to the student union, theater, art spaces and cafes. The hotel has about 100 clean and basic rooms, priced from $110 to $120/night. Beware that these rooms go fast (and the rates go up to $200 or so) during football and parents' weekends. Ask for a room overlooking the Iowa River (1-319-335-3513; iowahouse hotel.com).

Hampton Inn/Iowa City recently opened on Riverside Drive, with free hot breakfasts and Wi-Fi (1-319-339-8000).

More upscale is Hotel Vetro, featuring green housekeeping, modern studio suites, a fitness center and unusual room service meals and sweets. The hotel is attached to the Bread Garden Market (a Whole Foods clone), which offers great takeout (1-319-337-4961; hotelvetro.com).

Where to eat

You'll find many eating options on popular Burlington Street, from Chinese to Mexican. Or try these:

Linn Street Cafe is where you'll want to go to celebrate that special college kid's launch. This elegant spot offers fine dining and entrees beginning at $21 (1-319-337-7370; linnstreetcafe.com).

Hamburg Inn 2, open since 1948, is Iowa City's oldest family-owned restaurant. (Restaurants 1 and 3 have closed.) You must try a world-famous pie shake (the joyous result of mixing ice cream, milk and your favorite slice of cake or pie in a blender). A large is only $6.99, and worth every penny (1-319-337-5512).

Clinton Street Social Club feels like walking into an old speakeasy, without the danger. Sit at the oak bar and enjoy an eclectic selection of bourbons, live music and good, cheap comfort food. (Beware: It's easy to miss the entrance, at 18 ½ Clinton St.; 1-319-351-1690; clintonstreet social.com.)

Mesa Pizza by the Slice offers fantastic late-night fare (1-319-351-6372).

Star Tribune columnist Gail Rosenblum feels a special debt to Iowa City, since her parents met there (612-673-7350 • twitter: @grosenblum).