Come spring, most cooks think of asparagus, peas and herbs. But cheesemakers conjure lush greens — timothy, clover, sorrel, sorghum — the salad bar for cows, goats and sheep. Artisan cheese is a seasonal food and spring is when a grass-fed animal's milk production peaks, thanks to those verdant fields. Now is when ricotta and fresh chèvre are at their best.
Fresh cheeses marry especially well with spring's tender greens and herbs. Ricotta is made from the whey left from cheesemaking, with the addition of a little more milk and an acid such as vinegar. "Ricotta" means "recooked." The fresh ricotta in our stores is coming in from Connecticut, and you can also find a nice ricotta from Wisconsin, at Broders' Cucina Italiana. Shepherd's Way Farm of Nerstrand, Minn., offers it to their CSA members.
Equally delicious, though decidedly tangier and denser, are the fresh goat cheeses from our local farmers. The term "chèvre" refers to any goat cheese, but fresh chèvre is an unaged goat cheese that is made with cultures and rennet, best enjoyed right away. Singing Hills Dairy, also of Nerstrand, makes a very delicate fresh chèvre, available at the Mill City Farmers Market and some others. Donnay Dairy of Kimball, Minn., makes a lively fresh chèvre that is widely available in local cheese shops and food co-ops.
When looking for fresh cheeses, avoid those that list preservatives or stabilizers that interfere with flavor and texture.
Ricotta and fresh chèvre bake up beautifully without the addition of eggs or flour. Sparked with a little lemon rind and fresh herbs, or sweetened with a dab of honey and spice, they resemble a cheesecake, delicious served warm or chilled. Try the herb and lemon version with crostini or crackers, or slice and serve on a salad of spring greens drizzled with lemon vinaigrette. These are light, bright and fresh favors to savor this spring.
Beth Dooley is the author of "In Winter's Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.
