Tempeh is a traditional Indonesian staple that dates to the 12th century, but it's relatively new to the United States. Like the more familiar tofu, tempeh is made with soybeans, but the similarities end there.

Tofu is made of cultured soy milk, while tempeh is a fermented whole soybean product. It has a firm, nutty texture and a hauntingly rich umeboshi flavor (sour and salty of pickled plums), so haunting that Ryan Billig founded Tempeh Tantrum on his memories of the street food he had eaten in Java the year he studied Indonesian Gamelean music in 2003.

"When I lived in Java, I saw how families made their own tempeh," he said. "It's a relatively easy process. The soybeans are soaked, split and then inoculated with a culture so they ferment and are then pressed into cakes. People set trays of them outside in their front yards to ferment."

He noted that the fresh tempeh is much different from the commercial products sold in Crayovac-packed packages and meant to last several weeks on the shelf. His traditional Tempeh Tantrum and the newer product, made with black beans, are crafted from local organic ingredients. Because they are made fresh and by hand, these have a distinct fresh, tangy taste. They do not contain preservatives, have a short shelf life and are best enjoyed within three days. They can be frozen for up to six months.

It took several years for Billig to perfect his formulation. In the meantime, he continued to work as a musician, playing in two bands, and caring for his infant son.

In 2014, Billig moved the small business out of his kitchen and into City Foods Studio in Minneapolis. Within the year, he had introduced Tempeh Tantrum to co-ops and was fielding requests for a nonsoy product from people who had issues with that ingredient.

Ryan Billig

"The black beans were trickier to ferment; they're finicky," he said.

While the traditional tempeh has a mild, nutty, mushroomy flavor that works nicely in stir-fries and mild spicy sauces, the black bean tempeh is more assertive and distinct. It's great in tacos, or marinated and then grilled like steak. The website hosts plenty of recipes for tacos, penyet (crushed tempeh, an Indonesian dish with plenty of chiles and garlic), plus marinades and seasonings.

Traditional and black bean Tempeh Tantrum are available in specialty food stores and Twin Cities co-ops. You can taste the product in sandwiches and stir-fries at Seward Co-op Creamery Cafe and the Birchwood Cafe in Minneapolis. An 8-ounce package yields two to four servings and retails for $5. For recipes and more information, go to tempeh-tantrum.com.