While many of us dread the descending polar vortex of winter, residents and fans of Hayward, Wis., are already reveling in it. The cross-country ski season has started early in this town of about 2,300, with more than 10 inches of snow already groomed and ready for the Nordic masses. Although ski races crowd Hayward's calendar all winter long, the American Birkebeiner is its signature event. Dating back to 1973, the Birkie, as it is affectionately known by locals, is one of 16 international ski marathons and draws competitors from all over the world.
Nearly 15 events held over four days in February attract about 10,000 participants and thousands of spectators and volunteers. Skiers who consider themselves more recreational than racer have plenty of options as well, with more than 200 kilometers of trails to choose from (www.birkie.com).
Nestled near 850,000 acres of the Chequamegon-Nicolet National Forest and surrounded by 55,000 acres of lakes and rivers, the area offers winter opportunities for nature lovers of all kinds. Snowshoe your way across a frozen lake or enter one of the many ice fishing competitions that attract hardy anglers of all ages. Hike among hardwoods on the trails north and east of town, or rent a fat tire bike from New Moon Ski and Bike Shop and test your snow cycling skills. If you prefer to stick with cross-country skis, they have those to rent too, and knowledgeable staffers can dish out trail recommendations. If speed is more your style, 140 miles of trails for ATVs and snowmobiles wind through nearby towns and into rural areas.
Six months out
When silent-sport enthusiasts aren't skiing in Hayward, they are biking along roller coasters of rural highways or rock-hopping their way over 300-plus miles of off-road mountain bike trails. Touted by the local Chequamegon Area Mountain Bike Association (CAMBA) as the single-track mecca of the Midwest, CAMBA's trails offer summer thrills for kids, amateurs and experts alike. Cyclists lucky enough to win a lottery spot can compete with more than 3,000 other riders in the annual Chequamegon Fat Tire Festival in September, which consists of either a 40- or 16-mile mountain bike ride along the Birkie trail (www.cheqfat tire.com).
Anglers have more than 200 lakes to choose from, and the Freshwater Fishing Hall of Fame has more than 7,300 prize catches mounted for visitors to see. If you prefer land over water, try your luck at one of about 10 golf courses, or take in a play or live music at the nostalgic Park Theater.
For entertainment with an alternative flair, cheer on log rollers, pole climbers and ax throwers at the annual Lumberjack World Championships in July (www.lumberjack worldchampionships.com), or head to one of North America's largest powwows, which takes place in July on nearby tribal grounds of the Lac Courte Oreilles Band of Lake Superior Chippewa Indians (tinyurl.com/q3m6bz4).
Checking in
Since Hayward is a year-round tourist destination, lodging options are plentiful and range from traditional hotels and motels, to rustic resorts, to B&B-style inns. The McCormick House in downtown Hayward is a refurbished 1887 Victorian mansion where guests can relax in formal gardens after eating an authentic English breakfast (1-715-934-3339; www.mccor mickhouseinn.com). The rooms at nearby Cable Nature Lodge, 7 miles east of Cable (1-866-794-2060; www.cablenaturelodge.com), are decked out in hardwood flooring and walls, and it's a short walk downstairs to fine dining at the Rookery Pub (1-715-794-2062; www.rookerypub.com). To get out of town and into the woods, choose from about 50 resorts and relax by your own piece of lakeshore.
Eating out
If you don't manage to catch your dinner, try the Friday night fish fry at the Angry Minnow Restaurant and Brewery, where you can wash down your Lake Superior whitefish or perch with one of nearly 10 beers brewed on site (1-715-934-3055; www.angryminnow.com). If you don't mind mounted wildlife watching while you eat, Anglers Bar and Grill is a good bet (1-715-634-4700; www.anglersbar andgrill.com), or head to Cable for gourmet wood-fired pizza from the Rivers Eatery (1-715-798-3123; www.theidealmarket.com).
Experience an authentic farm-to-table experience by visiting Farmstead Creamery and Café. Owned by a mother and her two daughters, North Star Homestead Farms produces grass-fed meats and poultry. It also operates a sheep-milk dairy, an aquaponics greenhouse that supplies tilapia and fresh produce all year long, and bakery goods made from scratch (1-715-462-3453; www.northstarhomestead.com).
Skip it
With nearly 10 state forest campgrounds to choose from in the pristine Chequamegon wilderness, bypass the manicured KOA campground and head straight to Mother Nature's back yard.
Getting there
Hayward is about 150 miles northeast of the Twin Cities via Interstate 35 and Hwys. 70 and 63.
More information
Hayward Lakes Visitors and Convention Bureau: 1-800-724-2992; www.haywardlakes.com.
Hayward Area Chamber of Commerce: 1-715-634-8662; www.hay wardareachamber.com.
Jennifer Thaney is a writer based in Bloomington.
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