LIGHT-SPICED AND PICKLED SUMMER CARROTS

Serves 2 as a separate course or 4 as a side dish.

Pickle:

• 3 c. rice vinegar

•1/4 to1/2 c. sugar, divided

• 1 tsp. salt

• 1 tsp. black peppercorns, bruised

• 2 to 3 star anise, bruised, or 11/2 tsp. fennel or anise seed, lightly crushed

• Water as needed

Carrots:

• 11/2 lb. carrots, peeled and cut into slender fingers about 2 in. long by 1/4-in. thick

• Salt

• Boiling water

Directions

Combine the vinegar,1/4 cup sugar, salt, peppercorns and star anise or other spice in a 6-quart pot. Heat just long enough to melt the sugar. Pour into a 3-quart glass or plastic storage container and let cool. Taste to see if the mix needs a little more sugar. You're going for a gently tart, slightly sweet flavor.

Before peeling the carrots, set the 6-quart pot back on the stove with a collapsible steamer inside. Add water to come just about to the steamer's bottom. Cover the pot and turn heat to medium. Once the carrots are ready, turn heat to high.

When water boils, drop in the carrots and sprinkle them with salt. Cover securely and steam for 6 minutes, or until tender-crisp, leaning toward crisp. Drain in a colander, rinsing with cold water to stop the cooking.

Add the carrots to the container with the vinegar mixture. Add water if necessary to just cover the vegetables. Cover and refrigerate 12 to 48 hours.

Serve the carrots cool, but not ice cold.