Of the dozen grilling books that have landed on my desk this season, three I like. Two of them are really useful and nicely targeted to a certain type of reader-griller. The third is a treasure.
I'll start with that one: Mario Batali's "Italian Grill." To be honest, I almost passed it over because it was one more thing brought to us by what feels a bit like the Mario machine.
Right away this book announces itself with intensely mouthwatering photography -- full of rich colors, simple styling and intimate shots that show every oil-glistened, crisply grilled morsel. None of the recipes is complicated, though several ask for marinating times of 12 hours, so read through your recipes ahead of time.
The book is not at all comprehensive, with just over 80 recipes, no desserts -- and of course everything is Italian, so no satays, hamburgers or grilled tofu (though there are some ribs). It's for a cook like me, who has moderate to good grilling skills and therefore isn't looking for technical help as much as inspiration.
In fact, the book doesn't offer much guidance or instruction at all. Other than several cursory paragraphs in the front of the book covering aspects such as gas vs. charcoal, direct vs. indirect heat and cooking on a piastra (a granite slab placed directly on the grill which, it just so happens, Mario is manufacturing and selling), there's not much detail about building or maintaining fires, gauging heat, dealing with flare-ups, etc.
So if you want a book to teach you to grill, this is not it. But if you want a book that will kindle a real excitement about grilling -- no matter what the weather -- this is the one.
The second book of note is "Grill It! Recipes, Techniques, Tools," by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby, a team that has produced nine cookbooks together, most on grilling. If you already have "The Thrill of the Grill," you may not need this book, but if you want a good basic book with appealing recipes, this would be an excellent choice.
In contrast to Mario's nonchalance about technique, these guys give us 41 pages of definitions, demonstrations (how to arrange the coals for smoke-roasting a chicken), and advice (on the difference between hardwood charcoal, charcoal briquettes and hardwood logs). The 125 or so recipes sound scrumptious, and the photos deliver a tasty visceral punch. The book ends with a coda of refreshing cocktails (none of which is grilled) to sip while you flip.
The last book is "Grill Every Day: 125 Fast-Track Recipes for Weeknights at the Grill," by Diane Morgan, a Portland, Ore., resident who surely doesn't let a little rain get between her and her (many) grills. Most of her 125 recipes have short ingredient lists, and though some ask you to use a rub or paste that you've prepared ahead, those seasonings (part of her "grill pantry") will last you for many recipes.
What I like most about this book is the chapter called "The Grill Planner -- Second Helpings," which Morgan proposes as the key to managing weeknight cooking. Throw an extra pepper or tuna steak on the grill on Night 1, and you've got half your cooking done for Night 2, with no more effort. That's the kind of cooking that's smart anytime, with lessons we can carry through all our seasons of cooking.
