Where to stay: Amanfayun is the ultimate in rustic, ultra-low-key resorts. It's worth a splurge for a night or two. Rooms start at $580 (www.amanresorts.com/amanfayun/home.aspx).Landison Plaza Hotel is luxurious and a relative bargain for this booming region. Rooms start at about $100 (www.landisonplaza hotel.com.cn).

Where to eat: Louwailou has been serving up such Hangzhou delicacies as fried shrimp with Longjing tea leaves and Beggar's Chicken for more than a century. Entrees $13-$29.

What to do: Yongfu Temple sits on a hilltop in the village of Fayun Nong, a short walk from the Amanfayun resort and about a 20-minute drive from the center of Hangzhou. Founded by a monk from India in 362 A.D., the temple welcomes visitors who want to watch or quietly participate during daybreak prayers.

Mrs. Pang's Tea House is a locally run business in a cottage on the little main street that snakes through the Amanfayun resort. It is a good place to sample some of the Hangzhou region's quality teas including, of course, Longjing.

More info: Go to the Chinese National Tourist Office site at www.cnto.org/hangzhou.asp.

PETER MANDEL