CHECKING INMake reservations, because the region is very popular, and hotels can fill up quickly. Search the Internet for accommodations in towns you know you will visit, or go to michigan.org. Hotel costs ranged from $85 to $140 per night.

DINING

Legs Inn, in Cross Village, is a must (legsinn.com; it opens for the 2011 season starting May 21). Get the pierogies; more than 100 varieties of beer from around the world. Entrees $15 to $25.

GET IN BIKE SHAPE

This is no light workout. The climbs in the western portion are steep, and riding into a headwind can almost stop you.

TAKE TIME FOR

Sleeping Bear Dunes (sleepingbeardunes.com); South Manitou Island (leelanau.com/manitou/islands; a boat leaves from Leland), and the general store in Good Hart, which has a wonderful deli (goodhartstore.com).

CHICAGO TRIBUNE