Homemade coconut milk is easy to make, and it imparts a fine flavor to dishes. Here is a quick technique: Place the whole coconut into a large bowl and pour over it a kettle of boiling water. This softens the shell so it cracks easily. Let the coconut set for 10 minutes.

Drain and dry, wrap in a large kitchen towel. If you want to drink the coconut water inside, punch out the coconut "eyes" with a screwdriver and drain off the juice into a cup.

If not, place the towel-wrapped coconut on a table or counter top and use a hammer to smash it a couple of times into pieces, quickly pouring off the water.

Using a sharp knife, carefully remove both the woody coconut shell and the leathery brown layer covering the coconut meat. Rinse off the pieces of coconut under running water to remove any debris. Then, finely grate the coconut with a hand grater or in a food processor.

Using 1 cup of grated meat per 1 cup of boiling water for each cup of coconut milk, place the coconut and water into a blender or food processor and whirl for about 1 minute or process until the coconut is pulverized.

Allow the mixture to set for about an hour and then strain through a large double layer of cheesecloth or muslin, squeezing the pulp to extract all of the milk.

The milk will keep for a few days in the refrigerator in a tightly covered jar, or you can freeze it in a plastic container to use later.

You also can make coconut milk with frozen unsweetened grated coconut, which is sold in many large supermarkets and health food stores. Thaw it first, then proceed as for fresh coconut. You also can make coconut milk from unsweetened dried coconut, using about 1 cup coconut for about 11/4 cups boiling water, or a little more if needed, using the same method as with the fresh coconut.

Canned unsweetened coconut milk is also now widely available, but bear in mind that sweetened and flavored coconut cream is not the same as unsweetened coconut milk.

Be sure to stir all canned coconut milk well before using, for it tends to separate in the can. Store leftover canned coconut milk in a jar in the refrigerator, or freeze in a plastic container and defrost before using in recipes.

JOYCE WHITE