At 8 p.m. sharp, my daughter and I squeezed among children in pajamas to watch as the great time piece in the lobby came to life. In cuckoo-clock fashion, a French trapper and an Indian maiden popped out of doors, then sang. Animated animals got into the act, too.

My daughter was mesmerized. Either that, or those unblinking eyes were a sign of exhaustion after a busy day in the water park, rolling on waves, climbing around a play area made to look like a tree house and slipping down slides.

The show wowed me, too, but in a different way. Between 78,000-square-feet of water park, crafts, a high-tech interactive children's play area called Wiley's Woods, and the clock extravaganza, Great Wolf Lodge really knows how to entertain kids.

Best features: The teens in my party praised the funnel ride called the Howling Tornado. But for my 5-year-old and me, the highlight was Fort Mackenzie, a four-story, 12-level play structure with suspension bridges, slides and a water tower that dumps 1,000 gallons of water every few minutes on anyone below.

Advisory: If you want to eat at the resort, book your table early; its main restaurant, the Loose Moose, can get busy.

Beyond the water: Check out Wiley's Woods, the game arcade and the play room, but don't miss the morning tour. A guide talks about the various stuffed game animals that populate the lodge.

Practical matters: In Wisconsin Dells, Wis. Room rates start at $119 a night for a standard room and include park passes. You can opt for a condo with a full kitchen. Reservations and more info: 1-800-559-9653; www.greatwolf.com.