Grains, grapes and Germans shape New Ulm

By LISA MEYERS McCLINTICK

Outside New Ulm's visitor center, oom-pah-pah music pipes into the street. A few blocks down, the 45-foot-tall Glockenspiel clock tower draws a crowd three times a day to hear its bells. And you can't forget the beer. Hometown favorite Schell's Brewery is celebrating 150 years this year.

New Ulm, founded by German immigrants in the scenic Minnesota River Valley, wears its heritage proudly. It's also home to some of the state's most ornate historic buildings, grand homes and best festivals (Oktoberfest, anyone?). It radiates that hard-to-resist small-town serenity and historic pride that make it an ideal weekend getaway.

Summertime delights

Summer is the best time for camping at Flandrau State Park, the city's top attraction. You can buzz into town by car or bike for treats such as landjägers (beef and pork sausage) from the Sausage Shop, 301 N. Broadway. The biggest hit is the park's zero-depth pool, lined with sand and chlorinated, which sits along the Cottonwood River. Four miles of hiking trails wind through woods and prairie along the river. The park gets its second camping cabin this summer, but plan ahead. The first one is heavily booked through much of the summer (1-507-233-9800; www.stayatmnparks.com).

150 years of brewing

Schell's celebrates its 150-year run as the nation's second-oldest family-run brewery on Sept. 17-18. The brewery founded by German immigrant August Schell made it through Prohibition by producing soda, which it still makes, along with more than a dozen Schell's beers, Grain Belt beer and several contract brews. You can cap off a $3 museum and brewing tour with samples at the Ratskeller. Kids get Schell's 1919 root beer. The sizable scenic gardens around the mansion are home to seven preening peacocks (1-800-770-5020; 1-507-354-5528; www. schellsbrewery.com).

The Minnesota Valley's sobering history during the Dakota Conflict makes it even more fascinating. In 1862, Dakota Indians -- starving because of broken government promises -- attacked settlements in the valley. Settlers retaliated, eventually leading to the hanging of 38 Dakota in Mankato. You can follow in the footsteps of battles in downtown New Ulm, browse artifacts at the picturesque Brown County Historical Society Museum, or stand on the bluffs and among the ruins at Fort Ridgely State Park about 25 miles away (1-507-426-7840; www.dnr.state.mn.us). The park's interpretive center helps put the conflict into perspective. Campsites are available, and the park's par 35 nine-hole golf course is ideal for families ($9-$14/day).

Roam the valley

One of the prettiest drives follows County Road 21 northwest from New Ulm, hugs wooded bluffs and rolls through small farms. The drive also leads to the Harkin Store, a general store dating to the 1870s, which offers penny candy and pioneer-day thrills for the kids. (1-507-354-8666; www.mnhs.org/places/sites/hs).

Rock, or waltz, on

The Minnesota Music Hall of Fame features Bob Dylan and Prince, but old-time music fans will enjoy it the most. ($3; 1-507-354-7305; www.mnmusichalloffame.org). Also, the colorful Wanda Gag House highlights the work of the children's author/illustrator ("Millions of Cats" and "ABC Bunny"). ($2; 507-359-2632; www.wanda gaghouse.org).

The city kicks off the holidays with a Parade of Lights the Friday night after Thanksgiving and drapes the downtown in vintage garland. But holiday shopping can be done at any time of year, including at Lambrecht's, Domeier's and the GutenTag Haus, which hang glittering blown-glass ornaments among other German holiday crafts.

Geography lesson

Germans are known for being orderly, but the precisely-on-a-grid streets of New Ulm also were practical for a city that's long and narrow, funneled between the Minnesota and Cottonwood rivers. It sits on terraces above the Minnesota, with the lower elevation nicknamed Goosetown for the early fowl-raising Bohemians who lived there. The upper terraces, where grand homes line German Street and Broadway, were for the more well-to-do settlers. Canoeing is possible on the rivers, but plan to do so in early summer, when water is higher.

Getting there

From Minneapolis, it's about 100 miles to New Ulm via Hwy. 169 south to Mankato and west on Hwy. 14. The other option is to follow Hwy. 212 west and Hwy. 15 south to New Ulm.

Grand brick and Victorian homes with turrets and elegant porches line Broadway and German Street. Four are bed-and-breakfast inns, including Bingham Hall, where the most luxurious room includes a whirlpool tub, fireplace and massage chair ($99-$199; 1-507-354-6766; www.bingham-hall.com ).
Holiday Inn follows the German theme with its restaurant (Otto's) and exterior timberwork (rates start at $85 weeknights; 1-507-359-2941; www.holidayinn.com/newulmmn ).

Dining

For a light dinner, the Friday night hot spot lies east of town. Morgan Creek Vineyards' Wine Down for the Weekend serves live jazz, brick-oven pizza and Minnesota varietal wines on its terrace. Wine tours and tastings are offered on weekends. (1-507-947-3547; www.morgancreekvineyards.com ).
Punch in Doris Day or Frank Sinatra songs with tableside jukeboxes in the booths at Kaiserhoff. The downtown German restaurant is best known for ribs with a mayo-based sauce (1-507-359-2071; www.kaiserhoff.org ).

More info

New Ulm Chamber of Commerce (1-888-463-9856; www.newulm.com ).