Monday night, the lights will go up and a freshly overhauled Xcel Energy Center will swell with the packed humanity of thousands of delegates, pundits and media types who have streamed into St. Paul from across the country for a curious quadrennial ritual -- a quaint relic of a time when political parties wielded actual power at their national conventions.
Back then, wild deals struck in obscure, guarded hotel rooms could upend the results, producing unorthodox candidates and lending an air of high drama to the proceedings.
"Those smoke-filled rooms produced some of the worst presidents we ever had," said Minnesota historian Hy Berman. "They also produced some of the best -- Franklin Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln. So are we necessarily better off now? No. You make your choice."
The choice now is for a tightly choreographed, elaborately orchestrated, $58 million spectacle that amounts to a four-day infomercial for candidate and party.
"It's primarily a marketing opportunity," said Brian Sullivan, a Republican national committee member and former Minnesota gubernatorial candidate. "It's the ultimate platform to showcase the candidate and the benefits of selecting our party."
For those who live and breathe politics, the tidal wave of money and power sweeping into the Twin Cities will be intoxicating. From the glittering bashes to be thrown by Medtronic and Target to two towns bristling with events and fresh baskets of petunias along their streets, the center of the political universe from Labor Day to Thursday will be right here, a place coastal elites once sniffed at as "Flyover Land."
They won't be flying over us this time.
Bigwig convention players get to delay their appearance. Midwigs started arriving a week ago. The biggest wig of them all -- John McCain -- likely won't show up until the last day, when, like a debutante prepped for the ball, he'll have his national coming-out on a freshly built stage at the X.