Last Thanksgiving brought an all-out turkey price war, with some retailers selling frozen birds for only 39 cents a pound -- an amazing deal, considering that $1 a pound is usually a good price. Forget such deals for certified organic or free-range natural turkeys from area small farms, which cost a lot more.

Does a more expensive organic turkey taste better than a commercially raised one? Opinions differ, but it's irrelevant for many organic meat buyers who prefer a chemical-free, humanely and sustainably raised alternative.

That's why I checked prices last week on certified organic turkeys at Twin Cities supermarkets and co-ops. I also included a few small Minnesota and Wisconsin farms that sell natural birds, which cost less because they're not subject to the stricter regulations for certified-organic birds.

The government doesn't have a standardized definition for "natural." Turkeys called natural from Ferndale Market in Cannon Falls, Minn., for example, are free-range, antibiotic- and hormone-free, but they are fed a commercial diet that is not organic and might contain animal byproducts. Bar 5 in Arlington, Minn., and Otis Family Farm in Baldwin, Wis., use a commercial, nonorganic vegetarian feed.

One advantage of buying from local farms is that consumers can ask farmers how the birds were raised. Larry Schultz of Larry Schultz Organic Farm in Owatonna, Minn., says buyers of turkeys called natural rather than organic should ask why the farmer is not certified.

Sample questions: Is the feed from crops that were sprayed with insecticide or herbicide or grown with synthetic fertilizer? Were genetically modified seeds used? Were the poults ever inoculated? Are the birds roaming free in a pasture? In confinement?

Associated Press, Star Tribune
White Holland turkeys

Consumers wanting more information can call the farmers or ask in person at a farmers market.

Most of the following stores will have turkeys for sale in the freezer case, but some require pre-orders at the meat counter. To avoid disappointment, consider pre-ordering, especially for organic turkeys. To save time, buyers at some retailers can purchase a frozen bird in advance and request that it be thawed for pickup the day before Thanksgiving.

TALKING TURKEY PRICES

Here's a recent price check of Twin Cities retailers on certified organic turkeys and natural turkeys from area farms. Note that prices might vary depending on sales and availability.

CUB FOODS

(various locations, www.cub.com)

Certified organic: Organic Prairie from farms in Wisconsin $4.89/lb. (frozen), and Wild Harvest from small farms in Maryland and Pennsylvania, $2.69/lb. (fresh or frozen).

FRESH & NATURAL FOODS

(Hudson, Wis., Plymouth, Shoreview, 651-203-3663, www.freshandnaturalfoods.com)

Certified organic: Larry Schultz Organic Farm in Owatonna, $3.29/lb. (frozen), with an additional 10 percent off from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday.

KOWALSKI'S MARKETS

(nine locations, www.kowalskis.com)

Certified organic: Kowalski's private label from Schultz Organic Farm, $2.99/lb. (fresh).

Natural: Ferndale Market in Cannon Falls, $2.19/lb. (fresh), $1.79/lb. (frozen)

LUNDS AND BYERLY'S

(21 locations, www.lundsandbyerlys.com)

Certified organic: Lunds/Byerly's private label from Schultz Organic Farm, $4.29/lb (fresh).

MISSISSIPPI MARKET

(two St. Paul locations, 651-310-9499, www.msmarket.coop)

Certified organic: Schultz Organic Farm, $2.99/lb. (frozen).

RAINBOW FOODS

(various locations, www.rainbowfoods.com)

Certified organic: Organic Prairie, $3.99/lb. (frozen).

ST. PAUL FARMERS MARKET

(290 E. 5th St., St. Paul, www.stpaulfarmersmarket.com), 6 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturdays, 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Sundays.

Natural: Bar 5 (Arlington, 1-507-964-5612) $3.19/lb. (fresh); pre-orders must be picked up at the St. Paul Farmers Market 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Nov. 24. Otis Family Farm (Baldwin, Wis., 1-715-684-5212) $2.49-$2.59/lb. (fresh), available on-site Saturday.

VALLEY NATURAL FOODS

(13750 County Road 11, Burnsville, 952-891-1212, www.valleynaturalfoods.com).

Certified organic: Schultz Organic Farm, $2.89/lb. (frozen).

Natural: Ferndale Market, $2.29/lb. (fresh), $1.99/lb. (frozen).

WEDGE CO-OP

(2105 Lyndale Av. S., Mpls., 612-874-7275)

Certified organic: Schultz Organic Farm, $2.99/lb. (frozen).

WHOLE FOODS

(Minneapolis, 612-927-8141, and St. Paul, 651-690-0197)

Certified organic: Schultz Organic Farm, $2.99/lb. (fresh).

John Ewoldt • 612-673-7633 or jewoldt@startribune.com.