When it comes to pancakes, I usually go Dutch.

A Dutch baby — also known as a German pancake or oven-baked pancake — is the preferred pancake of weekend mornings in my house, and I’m convinced it should be in everyone’s home.

For the uninitiated, a Dutch baby is a large baked pancake akin to a popover. Its shape varies slightly each time. Mine often looks like a swollen, edible sombrero, with a golden dome in the middle and a puffed-up matching rim, until it deflates. The way the golden brown pancake balloons to twice the height of the pan it’s baked in before collapsing in on itself is hypnotizing. And then you get to dress it up with toppings.

But I’m not in this for the drama alone. The batter is easy to make, and the recipe is a breeze to memorize. The golden brown edges are crisp, and the folds within the pancake contain a custardy yellow center.

As spectacular as Dutch baby pancakes are, I don’t see them on a lot of restaurant menus, so the magic is a little easier to capture at home.

The best thing about a Dutch baby is its endlessly adaptable nature. It provides a solid base for savory and sweet additions.

My favorite variation is the Everything Bagel Dutch Baby, my version of a savory Dutch baby pancake.

I’ve included a basic recipe for a Dutch baby, along with a couple of dozen ideas for dressing it up. There’s also the savory bagel-inspired recipe, as well as a mini version of the pancake so you can brunch by yourself.

Dutch Baby Pancake

Serves 2.

Note: The rules of this pancake are simple: Move quickly and use room-temperature ingredients and a hot pan. From Ileana Morales Valentine.

• 3 eggs, at room temperature

• 1/2 c. milk or half-and-half, at room temperature

• 1/2 c. all-purpose flour

• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt

• 4 tbsp. butter, divided, at room temperature

Directions

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Place a large ovenproof skillet in the center rack of oven.

Mix eggs, milk, flour, salt and 2 tablespoons melted butter in a large bowl, and combine until batter is mostly smooth. Let the mixture rest while oven comes to temperature.

Use oven mitts to carefully remove hot skillet from oven. Place 2 tablespoons butter in the hot skillet, using a wooden spoon to quickly swirl it around. It will melt quickly and start to brown and become fragrant. Immediately add batter and return skillet to the oven. Bake until puffed up and golden brown at the edges, 15 to 20 minutes. Garnish with desired toppings and serve immediately. The pancake will begin to deflate as soon as it’s out of the oven.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories 460 Fat 32 g Sodium 770 mg

Carbohydrates 28 g Saturated fat 17 g Total sugars 4 g

Protein 15 g Cholesterol 340 mg Dietary fiber 1 g

Exchanges per serving: 1 starch, 1 carb, 2 medium-fat protein, 4 fat.

Everything Bagel Dutch Baby Pancake

Serves 2.

Note: This is where the classic baked pancake meets a bagel sandwich. This savory take is unexpected, impressive and delicious. The spice blend and yogurt sauce will yield some leftovers, making another round a cinch. If you can’t find dried garlic and onion flakes for the spice blend, use garlic powder and onion powder. The texture will be different, but you’ll get the flavors you need. From Ileana Morales Valentine.

For the Everything Bagel spice blend:

• 2 tsp. toasted sesame seeds

• 2 tsp. poppy seeds

• 2 tsp. dried garlic flakes (see Note)

• 2 tsp. dried onion flakes (see Note)

• 1/2 tsp. coarse salt

For the herb-yogurt sauce:

• 1 c. plain regular yogurt (not Greek; it’ll be too thick)

• 2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh herbs, such as dill and parsley

• Pinch of salt

For the pancake:

• 3 eggs, at room temperature

• 1/2 c. milk or half-and-half, at room temperature

• 1/2 c. all-purpose flour

• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt

• 4 tbsp. butter, divided, at room temperature

For topping:

• 4 oz. smoked salmon

• ¼ red onion, thinly sliced

• 1 tbsp. capers

• Fresh dill, torn into small sprigs

Directions

To make the spice blend: Combine sesame seeds, poppy seeds, garlic, onion and salt in a jar or small bowl and mix to combine.

To make the herb-yogurt sauce: Use a spatula or spoon to combine yogurt, herbs and salt in a small bowl.

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Place a large ovenproof skillet in the center rack of oven.

Mix eggs, milk, flour, salt and 2 tablespoons melted butter in a large bowl, and combine until batter is mostly smooth. Let the mixture rest while oven comes to temperature.

Use oven mitts to carefully remove hot skillet from oven. Place 2 tablespoons butter in the hot skillet, using a wooden spoon to quickly swirl it around. It will melt quickly and start to brown and become fragrant. Immediately add batter and return skillet to the oven. Bake until puffed up and golden brown at the edges, 15 to 20 minutes.

Garnish with smoked salmon, sliced onion, capers and herb-yogurt sauce. Season generously with spice blend and small sprigs of fresh dill and serve immediately. The pancake will begin to deflate as soon as it’s out of the oven.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories 600 Fat 37 g Sodium 1,590 mg

Carbohydrates 36 g Saturated fat 19 g Total sugars 9 g

Protein 30 g Cholesterol 360 mg Dietary fiber 2 g

Exchanges per serving: ½ milk, 2 starch, 3 medium-fat protein, 4 fat.

Single-Serving Dutch Baby Pancake

Serves 1.

Note: From Ileana Morales Valentine.

• 1 egg, at room temperature

• 1/4 c. milk, at room temperature

• 1/4 c. all-purpose flour

• 1/4 tsp. kosher salt

• 2 tbsp. butter, divided

Directions

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Place a 6-inch ovenproof (preferably cast iron) skillet in center rack of oven.

Mix eggs, milk, flour, salt and 1 tablespoon melted butter in a large bowl to combine until batter is mostly smooth. Let rest while oven comes to temperature.

Use oven mitts to carefully remove hot skillet from oven. Place 1 tablespoon butter in hot skillet, using a wooden spoon to quickly swirl it around. It will melt quickly and start to brown and become fragrant. Immediately add batter and return skillet to the oven. Bake until puffed up and golden brown at edges, about 10 minutes. Garnish with desired toppings and serve immediately. The pancake will begin to deflate as soon as it’s out of the oven.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories 420 Fat 29 g Sodium 740 mg

Carbohydrates 27 g Saturated fat 17 g Total sugars 4 g

Protein 12 g Cholesterol 250 mg Dietary fiber 1 g

Exchanges per serving: 2 starch, 1 medium-fat protein, 4½ fat.