"Summer and Smoke" is the title of a Tennessee Williams play, yes, but it's also an accurate description for the latest crop of outdoor cooking cookbooks. Smoking is getting much attention this season as a technique, a flavoring agent and even a book theme — three new works have "smoke" or "smoking" in their titles.
Authors seem intent on proving yet again that outdoor cooking is more than slapping meat patties on a hot grill. They're reaching around the world for recipes, flavors and inspiration. Reverse-seared steaks, smoked deviled eggs and homemade bacon are among the hot topics; lamb and mutton are getting encouraging nudges; and the grill and/or smoker is being used for almost everything, from first course to dessert. Do-it-yourselfers get help, too, as books offer master recipes on, say, curing bacon or making sausage — and then offer recipes to use these products.
So, crack open a cold one, find some shade and break out these outdoor cookbooks for some delicious summer reading — and cooking.
"Around the Fire," by Greg Denton and Gabrielle Quinonez Denton with Stacy Adimando (Ten Speed Press, $35).
Everyone needs a cookbook to dream by. This book from the chefs/owners of Ox Restaurant in Portland, Ore., is mine this summer. Ox offers "Argentine-style grilling with a Pacific Northwest approach," the book says. Grilling is at the center of the book, with three chapters devoted to meat, seafood and vegetables, but there are also salads, cold seafood, desserts and cocktails. Grilling fans looking beyond the obvious will find, among other choices, lamb heart, wild halibut on the bone, roasted spaghetti squash and turkey butt — a conversation starter if there ever was one. The writing is clear and the passion for fire cooking strong, and there's a good grilling how-to chapter to get you started.
"Master of the Grill," by the editors at America's Test Kitchen (America's Test Kitchen, $29.95).
This book boasts that it offers 692 recipes, ratings, tips and techniques for every ability level. No, I didn't count. Each is numbered, a graphically appealing device that also poses an unspoken challenge: Just how many can you check off in one summer? Start with "The Basics," then move to "The Easy Upgrades" and "The Serious Projects" (among the latter, grilling steaks over a chimney-style charcoal starter). Move from "Great Backyard Burgers" (No. 1) to "Preparing Lobster for the Grill" (No. 692). An authoritative "Why This Recipe Works" paragraph kicks off each recipe. Instructions for charcoal and gas grills are included in the recipes, followed where appropriate by variations to try.
"Meathead: The Science of Great Barbecue and Grilling," by Meathead Goldwyn with Greg Blonder (Rux Martin, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, $35).