The 183-mile Chippewa River slices through the heart of Eau Claire, flowing south through the city's downtown, where it is joined by the Eau Claire River. Eventually, the Chippewa empties into the Mississippi just north of Wabasha, Minn. It was the mighty Chippewa River that spurred Eau Claire's development as a lumber town in its early days.CHECKING IN

For a city chock full of old lumber baron mansions, it's surprising there aren't a wealth of B&Bs. But there is the Otter Creek Inn, a three-story English Tudor home on a wooded lot alongside Otter Creek. Its six tastefully decorated rooms all come with two-person whirlpool tubs and free Wi-Fi; most also have gas fireplaces. A full breakfast is served daily, either in-room or around the dining table. Check out the too-cool fireplace surround in the great room, created entirely from pennies ($110-$210; 1-866-832-2945; www.otter creekinn.com).

Families might wish to book a room at the newer Metropolis Resort, which features a variety of accommodations. All rooms come with free Wi-Fi, fridges and microwaves, and a hot continental breakfast.The resort also has an indoor waterpark and Action City, an indoor amusement park that includes a go-kart track, climbing wall, bumper cars and laser tag. (From about $89; 1-888-861-6001; www.metropolisresort.com.)

EATING OUT

Mona Lisa's, tucked into a 1912 building, dishes up great Italian/Mediterranean fare in a chic, urban setting. Its wine list is impressive, and prices are quite reasonable (428 Water St.; 1-715-839-8969; www.monalisas.biz).

Turks Head Coffee House serves "regular" specialty coffee along with coffee from other cultures, such as the Spicy Mexican Mocha and Norwegian Egg Coffee. Similarly, its baked goods are enlivened with everything from lavender and hibiscus to habanero pepper. Try a "sconini," a sandwich made on a scone, then panini-grilled (307 S. Barstow St.; 1-715-552-3838; www.turksheadcoffeehouse.com).

Obsession Chocolates Lounge & Café also creates innovative fare, including Crème Fraiche Waffles and veggie burgers fashioned from organic brown rice, sunflower seeds, veggies and herbs, then topped with mango horseradish. Of course, amazing chocolates are sold, too. (18 S. Barstow St.; 1-715-830-8301; www.obsessionchocolates.com).

INFORMATION

The visitors' bureau: 1-888-523-3866 or www.visiteauclaire.com.

MELANIE RADZICKI MCMANUS