'Splendid Table' a winner at James Beard Minnesota didn't come up empty-handed at last weekend's James Beard Foundation Awards in New York City. "The Splendid Table," hosted by Lynne Rossetto Kasper, right, and produced by Sally Swift and Jennifer Russell for American Public Media in St. Paul, was named Best Radio Food Show.

But the black-tie audience at Lincoln Center's Avery Fisher Hall didn't get to hear an acceptance speech from a Minneapolis chef. Three were up for the Best Chef: Midwest award: Isaac Becker of 112 Eatery and two-time nominees Tim McKee of La Belle Vie and Alex Roberts of Restaurant Alma. The award went to Adam Siegel of Bartolotta's Lake Park Bistro in Milwaukee. Let's hope 2009 is the city's Beard year.

(Speaking of speeches, one that stood out came from John Ragan of New York City's Eleven Madison Park, winner of the Outstanding Wine Service award; he thanked his parents, proudly clutched his industry's top honor and said, "Mom, I don't think I'll be going back to school.")

It's a bit of a stretch, but Iowa had its moment to bask in the Beard limelight. The evening's Lifetime Achievement award recipient was Newton, Iowa, native Fritz Maytag, owner of the Anchor Brewing Co. Maytag's father created Maytag Blue Cheese; Maytag's great-grandfather founded the Maytag appliance company.

No Minnesota chefs were among the 30-plus cooking at the postawards gala (cochaired by Odessa Piper, former chef/owner of L'Etoile in Madison, Wis.), but a handful of Midwesterners were doing the region and its ingredients proud. M.J. Adams of the Corn Exchange in Rapid City, S.D., was serving spicy buffalo empanadas; Tory Miller of L'Etoile was slicing a sublime New York strip garnished with morels; Josh Galliano of An American Place in St. Louis was showcasing braised pork belly with pickled peaches, and Bruce Sherman of Chicago's North Pond was scooping goat cheese sorbet topped with a rhubarb relish. And perhaps she was a White Castle fan, because Minnesota native Cindy Pawlcyn (of Mustards Grill in Yountville, Calif.) was serving fantastic sliders, some with duck, others with lamb.

Food-world stars were out in full force (and awards cohost Kim Cattrall, forced to read some of the most stilted awards-show dialogue ever written, was no slouch in the glamour department). I felt as if I was stalking chef Rick Bayless (he of Chicago's Frontera Grill and PBS and cookbook fame), I ran into him so often in a 24-hour period. The postawards destination of choice appeared to be Bar Boulud, chef Daniel Boulud's new wine bar/cafe (awesome charcuterie) across the street from Lincoln Center. From our perch at the bar, we spotted Grant Achatz of Chicago's Alinea (the night's top award winner as Outstanding Chef) sharing a table with mentor Thomas Keller (of the French Laundry in Yountville, Calif., and Per Se in New York City), as well as two high-profile faces: Boston's Todd English (Olives, Figs) and Seattle's Tom Douglas (Dahlia Lounge, Palace Kitchen). Carrie Nahabedian of Chicago's Naha (the night's Best Chef: Great Lakes winner) and her posse held court at the restaurant's front table close to where Roberts and his spouse Margo were enjoying a post gala nosh with David Shea and Tanya Spaulding of Shea Inc., the Minneapolis design firm.

RICK NELSON