"So far south it's like you're north again." That's one way to start a conversation and explain the strange hemispheric proposition that is Patagonia, an Ontario-size region that straddles vast wild lands of two nations, Chile and Argentina, before fading to a tip where South America disappears into the sea. Ice fields, mountains, endless forests and swamps, beaches, fjords, dry plains and weird, tundra-like terrain in the region's most southerly reaches make Patagonia among the world's more diverse places.

Travelers can approach Patagonia via Chile or Argentina, and there are myriad ways to see the immense region. For the past two winters, I have jumped in at Punta Arenas, a main town in Chilean Patagonia, to strike out toward natural destinations within a day's drive of the town.

The "GoChile" portal, www.gochile.cl/en, is a good place to start looking at trip options and basic travel information. Nomadas Outdoor Services (www.nomadas.cl), the organization that runs the Patagonian Expedition Race, drills in on tours near the tip of continent, including its "End of the World" itinerary, a nine-day trip through the area that includes trekking and kayaking.

Other "off the grid" activities in the area, including Pali-Aike National Park, Isla Navarino, and tours in the Strait of Magellan or Tierra del Fuego, can be arranged through outfitters in Punta Arenas. Book ahead or sign up once you arrive in the town.

Torres del Paine National Park is a must-do for most visitors. Look into treks, kayak excursions, or climbing adventures at www.parque torresdelpaine.cl. There is camping in the park, including primitive free sites, as well as lodges and luxury accommodations like the Hotel Las Torres Patagonia (www.lastorres.com) in or near the mountainous national park.

STEPHEN REGENOLD