Just to be clear, there is nothing wrong with chicken noodle soup. Or cream of tomato. I love them both.
But there's so much more to sip from your spoon on a chilly day — think ginger- carrot soup, Dutch cheese soup or a root vegetable chowder. And there's no one better to teach us how to make it than Beatrice Ojakangas of Duluth.
She does just that in "The Soup & Bread Cookbook" (Rodale, 308 pages, $23.99), her 29th volume, in which she tackles a subject that may be closer to her core than the Scandinavian baking books for which she is known.
She praises the simplicity of that most basic meal — bread and soup — which can be found in one form or another in kitchens around the world. It's the meal I most associate with her, one that is thrifty, filling and unfussy — one so seasonal you can use it as a calendar of sorts.
Years ago, as a young reporter, I stepped into the Ojakangas household after a long snowy drive through the fields and towering pines of northeast Minnesota. After I shook off the snowflakes and stomped my boots, she led me into the heart of her home — a warm, fragrant kitchen — where a pot of French onion soup was simmering on a back burner. Talk about comfort food. One sip of that and I felt at ease. Interviewing the foremost authority on all things Scandinavian? No problem when a pot of soup was at hand.
That nourishing bowl has a way of transforming us. Can you imagine eating soup while being angry, and then staying that way after your last spoonful? Of course not. You have to slow down to eat soup. You have to be mindful of your actions or you may spill the contents as the spoon follows the arc from bowl to mouth. It might as well be the "be and breathe" of dining.
And then there's bread, whether a hearty loaf, simple biscuit or crunchy breadstick. Whatever the shape or flavor, it is sustenance at its most basic, and as natural a pairing with soup as food is to wine.
Ojakangas has known this since she was a young girl. Her mother told her that, when eating out, she could never go wrong by ordering soup, which would inevitably come with some kind of bread or cracker. That's good advice for the host, as well: Bread and soup is always a winner.