Around here, wine at restaurants is almost always handled by a general manager who’s juggling a gazillion other duties. Somehow, Meritage’s Nicolas Giraud does all that and still maintains a large, splendidly priced, ever-evolving list. The French accent doesn’t hurt, either. 410 St. Peter St., St Paul; 651-222-5670, meritage-stpaul.com.
Runner-up: Bill Summerville, La Belle Vie