Minnesota’s wineries have basically followed that old Vaudeville routine, “Slowly I turned; step by step, inch by inch.” But slow and steady is winning the race, as the wines have improved markedly for the better part of a century (the 21st). But a newish winery down St. Peter way might be the new benchmark. Chankaska Creek’s whites are expressive and darn tasty, and the robust, delicious Marquette Reserve is not only worth its $34 price tag, but might be a bargain. 1179 E Pearl St., Kasota; 1-507-931-0089;

chankaskawines.com