At their happening new North Loop hot spot, Borough chefs/co-owners Nick O'Leary and Tyler Shipton are turning out some of the Twin Cities' most exciting, food-forward plates. But they don't overlook basic appetites, either. Witness their extraordinary burger, a fine-grind blend of sirloin and New York strip bolstered with beef fat and butter and seasoned with garlic and thyme. It's grilled to unabashed juiciness and before it leaves the kitchen in its neatly toasted bun it's garnished with thick-cut bacon, sweet caramelized onions and a wild pillow of frothed cream that's fortified with plain-old American cheese. It's a talker, and it's delicious. 730 Washington Av. N., Mpls.; 612-354-3135, boroughmpls.com. Runner-up: Goat burger at the Gray House

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