It might be the ultimate First World problem.
"At some point," said David (Merf) Merfeld, "we won't have to keep saying that Washington wines over-deliver on price."
Alas, the Northstar winemaker's work is not done. He, his Evergreen State mates and yours truly will have to keep on spreading the word that at every price point, Washington's red, white and pink wines provide surpassing value.
That's because many consumers, at least in these parts, have yet to explore the amazing bargains that can be had from Washington, according to local merchants. Especially once the prices get north of $15 or so.
That's most unfortunate, because the cabernets, merlots and syrahs in particular provide infinitely more value than most of their similarly priced peers from California or, well, anywhere. The $40 reds frequently taste like $100 wines from elsewhere. (Which is why, contrary to conventional wisdom, a $40 wine can be a steal.)
Take the Northstar Merlot, made by Iowa native Merfeld, or sundry Dusted Valley reds, made by Wisconsin natives Chad Johnson and Corey Braunel. Or take the Figgins Walla Walla red, which might be my favorite under-$100 Bordeaux blend in the world with its explosive, endlessly complex flavors and amazingly elegant finish.
No wonder Chris Figgins, who had been (and still is) making the stately Leonetti merlots and cabernets, acted impulsively when he saw that the property that would become the Figgins vineyard was available: "I pulled the 'For Sale' sign out of the ground and put it in the back of my truck."
Part of the reason Washington's wines haven't garnered more cachet is that it's a nascent industry, not much older than Minnesota's. Until the 1970s, the grape that the state was mostly known for was Concord (think Welch's grape jelly). But pioneers such as David Lake brought grander aspirations to what had been mostly wheat fields and fruit orchards.