NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE FESTIVAL

This year's 38th annual installment of Jazz Fest enjoyed the same attendance as the year before Katrina, 400,000, and it was easy to see why. The seven-day, two-weekend bash still offers the same inspirationally diverse music lineup and legendary food stands. The 2009 dates are April 24-26 and April 30-May 3 (www.nojazzfest.com).

VOODOO MUSIC FEST

New Orleans' answer to the hip Coachella and Bonnaroo fests, its 2008 lineup (Oct. 24-26) finds Nine Inch Nails, R.E.M. and Lupe Fiasco mingling with Rebirth, the Iguanas, and other NOLA music stalwarts (www.thetenthritual.com).

PONDEROSA STOMP

Held the week between the two Jazz Fest weekends at various locations, it digs up unsung and/or M.I.A. music pioneers for record geeks from around the world (www.ponderosastomp.com).

VAUGHAN'S LOUNGE

More a corner bar than a music venue, it fills both roles and becomes a barbecue joint every Thursday when Kermit Ruffins performs (4229 Dauphine St.; 1- 504-947-5562).

PRESERVATION HALL

The French Quarter's rustic, intimate Dixieland jazz venue now serves an array of blues, gospel and brass-band acts. And beer and wine! (726 St. Peter St.; 1-504-522-2841; www.preservationhall.com).

TIPITINA'S

Despite a scaled-back staff and schedule (typically Thursday-Sunday only), the Uptown music haven has carried on -- and carried many a musician with it via its nonprofit Tipitina's Foundation (501 Napolean Av.; 1-504-895-8477; www.tipitinas.com).

MID-CITY LANES

Saved by its second-story location (the bottom floor was 6 feet under water), the home of the Rock 'n' Bowl rolls on with its Thursday zydeco night and stars on weekends (4133 S. Carrollton Av.; 1-504-482-3133).

CHRIS RIEMENSCHNEIDER