Jet lag has its advantages.
I awoke before dawn on a crisp morning in late May in Kaikoura, on the east coast of New Zealand's South Island. I stumbled into the living room and peered through the glass doors of our rented condo overlooking the sea and the mountains. Only the faintest light was visible over the horizon, so I excitedly roused my husband, Alan, from sleep. Like kids on Christmas morning, we pulled on our jackets and shoes and walked to the cold, rocky shore to watch the sunrise while the town slept.
Witnessing the sun rise over the ocean — and knowing you're one of the first people in the world to see its rays that day — gave me an otherworldly sensation. In the distance, dark, jagged figures grew more pronounced against a lightening sky. To my left, the imposing, snow-dusted tips of the Kaikoura Mountain Range became bathed in a hazy, deep pink. In front of me, the ocean, previously calm, began to ebb and flow with increasing urgency. Above, the patchy sky was ablaze with hot pinks, fiery oranges and pale blues, and I thought of the Maori name for this country: Aotearoa, which means "land of the long white cloud." The spicy aroma of Norfolk pine and the sound of crashing waves filled out the rest of my senses.
I sat on the rocks, feeling whole.
Five days earlier Alan and I had arrived in Auckland, near the top of the North Island, early in the morning after a 12-hour flight from San Francisco (following a three-hour flight from Minneapolis). Our objective was ambitious: to drive across New Zealand, from the top of the North Island to the bottom of the South Island, in two weeks' time. Along the way, we'd go on once-in-a-lifetime adventures, see incredible sights and stay in choice accommodations.
During our first days, we saw the truly spectacular Hobbiton movie set in Matamata, used for "The Lord of the Rings" and "The Hobbit" movies. We walked through a geothermal valley, witnessed geysers and pampered ourselves with a visit to the Polynesian Spa in Rotorua. From there we drove to Wellington, at the southern tip of the North Island; it is the nation's capital and New Zealand's cultural center, but our time there was sadly brief.
Our first stop on the South Island was Kaikoura, one of those little towns that seemingly fly under the radar yet offer a wide range of recreation. We could've taken part in any number of pursuits, and ultimately decided to go whale-watching. Just off the Kaikoura coast, the continental shelf drops significantly and the waters host a hotbed of sperm whale activity.
We were warned that whale sightings are hit-or-miss. The ocean was a pristine cerulean color and glittered in the sunlight, and before our guide could even finish his introduction, the boat took a hard right toward where a sperm whale had just been spotted. At the end of our short excursion, we'd had three whale sightings, and came across a colony of seals and a school of dolphins, too.