Slowly but steadily, we're seeing more good offerings from Portugal. One of the best values is a red blend, Udaca Irreverente ($11). It boasts a friendly, forward nose, gorgeous fruit with a touch of smoke and a splendid finish. In short, it tastes a lot bigger than its price point. Swell accompaniments include grilled beef (anything from filets to burgers) or the birds that autumn hunters covet (duck, pheasant, grouse, etc.).

BILL WARD