It's really dicey to write "buy this wine by the case," but, well, I just did. I'm talking about the nonvintage Bedrock Wine Co. "Shebang!" red ($14). It's a wine for those who love red blends and for those who are leery of red blends, a New World wine for Old World aficionados. A juicy but hearty wine packed with meaty, big and bouncy flavors and textures, "Shebang!" boasts way more complexity than anything this price should possess. The mouthful and finish are visceral and vibrant. It's an old-fashioned, old-vine "field blend": mostly grenache and zinfandel with dollops of alicante, petite sirah and sangiovese. The dark but bright fruit in this California wine make it really versatile at the table: Roasted, braised or grilled meat, fowl and root vegetables only begin to cover the options (pizza!).

Available at Lowertown, Lakeville munis, Edina (Vernon Av.) West End (Red Wing), South Lyndale, the Little Wine Shoppe, Franklin- Nicollet and others.