2015 Vigneti Zanatta “Orion” Vermentino di Sardegna

The first job of a wine is to be delicious, or so they (and I) say. Well, the 2015 Vigneti Zanatta “Orion” Vermentino di Sardegna is stupendously packed with flavor. And texture. And persistence. This white from the island of Sardinia boasts great expression and harmony, and the mouth-watering finish makes it hard not to guzzle. Vermentino is grown throughout Italy, but is most often associated with Sardinia. This luscious treat also exemplifies my favorite wine trend of recent years: an onslaught of fabulous Italian whites for under $20, which was a rarity in these parts just a decade ago. Ideal for most appetizers, this wine also will cozy right up to fowl and fish entrees. Yum.

Available at Liquor Barn, Henry & Son, Wine Thief, Revival, Cub (Stillwater), Sentyrz, Bridgeview ­(Moorhead) and others.

Bill Ward