It wasn't so long ago that most wines from France's Muscadet region were laced with almost prolific acid, often subsuming the fruit. Now we see many more balanced efforts, such as the 2013 La Haudiniere Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine, an absolute steal at $12. The flavors (citrus, stone fruit) are vivid, the texture dances deftly between lush and lean, and the finish boasts both brightness and depth. Yum. Like most Muscadets (made from the melon de Bourgogne) grape, this lively white is tailor-made for oysters and other briny fruits of the sea, but it's also well-suited for most any fish, fowl or fall veggies.

Available at Big Top (St. Paul), Princeton, Edina (York Av.), Blue Max, Wine Market, Lunds & Byerlys (Eagan and Minnetonka) and others.