Virtually every winery that has been around for a while has had its ups and downs, and Parducci is no exception. But the Mendocino County outfit is on a definite upswing, exemplified by its "Small Lot" line of varietals. I'm especially impressed by the two bottlings made with Burgundy's foremost grapes, chardonnay and pinot noir, which rarely are this expressive in under-$15 releases from California. The Parducci Small Lot Blend Mendocino Chardonnay ($10) has zingy apple and rich pineapple flavors and a sexy mouthfeel, with a refreshing finish. Try it with lobster or shrimp, and be sure to stock up for corn season. The Parducci Small Lot Blend Mendocino Pinot Noir ($12) has that whole cherry-berry thing going on to great effect, and glides across the palate before finishing with more body than expected. Pair this lush red with pork or beef tenderloin or pinot's best friend, grilled salmon. Available at Lakeside, Village Square, red Lions, Bacchus, Surdyk's, Knollwood and others.