WINE

Viogniers can be very challenging, often ending up too fat or too lean. The McKinley Springs Horse Heaven Hills Viognier ($14) falls refreshingly in between, with lovely ripe fruit and just-bracing-enough acidity. This Washington white starts with viognier's characteristic floral nose and washes over the palate with melon and minerally notes. Try it with grilled shrimp or scallops and mildly spicy Asian dishes. Available at South Lyndale, Skyway Wine & Spirits, Wine & Spirits (Chanhassen) and others.

BILL WARD