WINE

Don't you just love pineau d'Aunis? I do. Of course, I had no idea what it was -- a red grape also known as chenin noir -- until I sampled a flat-out delicious rosé called Coteaux du Vendômois Lieu-dit Cocagne ($11). Red berries and just-right acidity provide ample taste and perfect texture, and it has one of the longest finishes I've encountered in a pink wine. Like most rosés, especially from France, it's extremely versatile at the table: Serve with a Caprese salad, grilled fish or fowl, chilled soup or salad.

BILL WARD