WINE

One of my favorite Italian wineries is Ca' Rugate, and one of its best values is the Ca' Rugate "San Michele" Soave Classico 2010 ($17). It's right in that happy zone for the Soave region, with clean, crisp flavors, spring-like freshness and a long, lean finish. Any white meat with a lemon zing will cozy right up to this wine, as will light pastas or pizza margherita and any fresh vegetable with a creamy sauce. (For more on Soave wines, see Thursday's Taste section.)

BILL WARD