Since the start of the year, the price of sugar futures has almost doubled.
This is welcome news for Brazil, the world's largest producer of the stuff. The price spike is mainly explained by unfavorable weather -- too little rain in India and too much in Brazil. India's sugar production fell by almost half last year, turning the country from the second-biggest producer to the biggest importer.
For Brazil's big sugar companies, the timing is perfect: The credit crunch set off a wave of consolidation in an industry that had been resistant to it. The firms that have survived now have more scale and lots of cash.
Louis Dreyfus, a French commodities giant, bought Santelisa Vale, a large processor of sugar cane, in April. Santelisa had expanded fast and taken on too much debt, a common mistake in an industry that had the highest levels of investment of any industry in Brazil before the crunch. Dreyfus, which already trades sugar, soybeans and other Brazilian agricultural goods, wanted to bolster its position. At the other end of the spectrum is Copersucar, a giant co-operative that unites lots of small growers in São Paulo state.
The biggest of the lot is Cosan, which alone produces 2.5 percent of the world's sugar. Last year it bought Exxon Mobil's distribution and retailing business in Brazil to help it sell its ethanol. This year it bought Nova America, a smaller sugar company. Like many of Brazil's big companies, Cosan mixes family ownership with capital from BNDES, Brazil's government-owned development bank. And like many other Brazilian giants, it has suffered a vicious feud within the founding family over who should run the business.
Rubens Ometto Silveira Mello fought other members of his family for 10 years in Brazil's courts before winning control of Cosan. In 2007 he strengthened his grip by setting up Cosan Ltd., a company with a dual share structure that accords some of Mello's shares 10 times the voting weight of ordinary ones. To do this, he listed Cosan Ltd. on the New York Stock Exchange, since Brazil's Novo Mercado, where Cosan was listed at the time, does not allow such arrangements.
Mello, who is splendidly forthright, did not let the subsequent controversy bother him overly.
"You're pissing on sludge and you don't know what's under your feet," he once told Dilma Rousseff, one of the front-runners for next year's presidential election, during a discussion of the government's energy policy.