What the world wears

"You are what you wear" doesn't have the same meaning it used to. Before culture became so globalized, ethnic dress was an important part of cultural and national identity for most parts of the world. Today, you're as likely to see jeans, T-shirts and business suits in Calcutta as in Minnesota.

But specialized dress still symbolizes heritage and a shared sense of belonging, whether ancient or modern. An exhibit opening Friday at the Goldstein Museum of Design offers a look at costumes from around the globe that feature aspects of function as well as fashion.

The 30 ensembles span ethnic groups from every continent, dating from thousands of years ago to the present day. They were selected by co-curators Kathleen Campbell and Jean McElvain from hundreds of items recently donated by the International Institute of Minnesota. The institute has collected ethnic costumes for 75 years, many of them donated by foreign students grateful for its assistance, others as diplomatic gifts.

There is more to many of the costumes than meets the eye. The baba riga worn by men in northern Nigeria looks like a simple, calf-length poncho made of stitched-together strips of thick, hand-woven fabrics.

But its design and bulky seams are intended to make its wearer look larger, conveying a sense of importance.

A Norwegian outfit consisting of skirt, blouse, embroidered vest, apron and cap is finished with a large metal brooch. The brooch's reflectivity was believed to ward off demons.

In a tradition that continues today, the most elaborate antique costumes are often associated with weddings. A Japanese bridal kimono, several yards long, looks more like the glittering contents of a treasure chest spilled onto the table. Costing thousands of dollars, the kimonos are rented by modern-day Japanese brides.

The exhibit also explores the concept of authenticity, which Campbell calls "a moving target. Costume is always evolving. Old isn't necessarily more authentic than new."

An example: The everyday dress for men in Bhutan is the go, a loose robe wrapped and bloused over a tight belt, forming a pouch to hold money and other personal items. Bhutanese men of today might pair it with Nikes and sweat socks, but the fact that it is still the uniform reflects a long-standing stability in the nation.

The collection wouldn't be complete without a Scottish kilt, now ceremonial but worn by Highlanders dating back to the 17th century. When the British defeated Scotland in the mid-18th century, they outlawed the kilts as barbaric. But they reemerged a few decades later, a sign of the period's romanticism.

The exhibit also features some accessories, including a pair of fur booties and a hat of the sort typically worn by Sami reindeer herders of northern Scandinavia. The boots were packed with sedge grass to make them warmer. The hat's four peaks indicate the four cardinal directions.

The exhibit was funded by the McKnight Foundation, the University of Minnesota and Friends of the Goldstein.