Malbec's popularity continues unabated, and one reason is the availability of great-value options such as the Finca La Linda Lujan de Cuyo Mendoza Malbec ($10). A rustic, almost chewy offering that somehow finishes with some elegance, this Argentinian red has a toasty, dark-fruit profile. The steak that goes so well with it doesn't have to come from Argentina, and throwing some sauteed morels on top makes for a blissful marriage.

BILL WARD