Travel: Lovely Brugge

Sometimes rain ruins a moment. Sometimes, it creates one. That was certainly true for me in Brugge.

For years, friends have been telling me I must visit this picturesque Belgian town, maybe because they know how much I adore Venice, another exquisite, romantic canal city. Maybe it's because they know how much I like to shop and would relish the lace boutiques. Either way, there we were, my partner Patrick Twiss and I, ready to explore the historic capital of the Flemish region and, oh no! A downpour, with rain and more rain in the forecast. But we had just a day-and-a-half to explore the city's windmills and chocolate and beer and churches and lace, so off we headed, umbrella working overtime, into the city center.

Then came the moment. Soaked and hungry, we spotted an ordinary cafe on the main square. A group of tourists was seated outside under an awning looking quite happy. We rushed over, sat down next to them and asked what they were eating.

"Tomato soup," said one.

"What else is good?" we asked.

"They only serve tomato soup," he said.

Well, then, it was settled. We'd have tomato soup.

We returned the next day and ordered the soup again. And, no, I am so sorry, but I cannot remember the name of the place. But I promise that you will have similar experiences off the beaten path. This is why we travel, right?

And, yes, we did eventually venture out and explore lovely Brugge.

Brugge in brief

Brugge, an hour from Brussels in northwest Belgium, is the capital and largest city of the province of West Flanders in the Flemish Region. It's still not very large, though, with a population of just over 100,000. You can easily walk from end to end in a half-hour, which we highly recommend. (You can also take a boat or ride in a horse-drawn carriage.)

The city's Middle Ages architecture is so well preserved that its historic center is a recognized UNESCO world heritage site. UNESCO aside, what you need to know is that Brugge is so exquisite that you'll just want to cry and take lots and lots of pictures of its abundant churches and steeples, almshouses, canals and swans, cobblestone streets and authentic windmills.

Room overlooking the canal

Charming hotels and B&Bs are abundant in Brugge. When our attempt to "couch-surf" fell through (a cheap option where you crash on someone's couch and then return the favor for travelers coming to your hometown), we found Hotel Ensor. The small, moderately priced, family-run hotel was located just off Brugge's charming main square. The rooms were small but clean, the breakfast generous and our room overlooked the scenic canal. Best of all, we met soft-spoken and infinitely patient hotel manager Geers Jan, who knew his city inside and out. He led us to many of the places that follow.

Rabbit stew, a Flemish treat

The city offers plenty of sandwich shops and outdoor food vendors if you'd like to grab a quick bite or make a picnic. But you must try at least one traditional Flemish meal. Geers sent us to the Flemish Pot, which caters to tourists and locals alike. Patrick feasted on rabbit stew, which took more than an hour to prepare. I ordered a fantastic fish dish.

Alehouses and pubs

Lace, a proud tradition

We spent a good hour at the Lace Centre, which is housed in the tastefully restored almshouses founded by the Adornes family. Even if lace isn't your thing, you're likely to be awed by the stunning and intricately designed shawls, tablecloths and more that have become one of Brugge's proudest traditions. Lace demonstrations are offered every afternoon except Sundays, and lacemaking materials are sold in the museum shop. But you'll find lace everywhere you walk, from dainty handkerchiefs to bedspreads. One kindly store owner showed me the difference in quality (and price) between handmade and machine-made lace. Be sure to ask, if you're a purist like me.

The city has a Chocolate Museum, too, with free demonstrations and samples. We didn't visit it because, frankly, we weren't wowed by the chocolate (try Chocolat Celeste in St. Paul and save the airfare). Of course, we ate a lot of it anyway.

Windmills at the edge of town

Giant modern windmills power Brugge today, but we encourage you to stroll to the Old Town at the edge of the city for a special visual treat: the huge old-style windmills set on the hills like stately grandfathers protecting the town. Do schlep your camera.

Gail Rosenblum • 612-673-7350