Sun shines on day one of Taste

Golden weather, tastier food and the most adventurous musical lineup in its 27 years -- it was enough to make the opening day of the newly reflavored Taste of Minnesota well worth the $20-$30 admission fee.

At least for the 2,500 or so sun-soaking work-skippers who showed up midday Friday to Harriet Island in downtown St. Paul, the eclectic mix of indie rock, Americana and blues music definitely came off as a different Taste.

"This isn't just a better Taste of Minnesota, it's one of the best days of music this summer," raved Theo Fuller, 23, of Minneapolis, following a blaring set by Duluth power-trio Retribution Gospel Choir.

Before RGC came a charming acoustic set by twangy Nashville/New York songwriter Justin Townes Earle. After RGC, hometown legend Willie Murphy played right above the Mississippi River on the new, picturesque Red House Records/KFAI-FM roots music stage. For people into rootsy or edgy or music, it was indeed a day to remember. Harmonious Los Angeles rock quartet Dawes -- a favorite on opening-day radio sponsor the Current 89.3 -- had a tentful of hip fans singing along gospel-style to "When My Time Comes," while Earle prompted another singalong by covering the Replacements' "Can't Hardly Wait."

For the general corn-dog-eating masses that came to Taste to hang out in past years, it might've been hard to forget or forgive the new entry fees -- up from $10 last year, after years when it was a free event. Landing on a workday no doubt hurt, but attendance was still significantly down from past years of Taste. At first it was, anyway.

Thousands more teens and twentysomethings started streaming in after 5 p.m., anticipating the headlining sets by Minneapolis' hip-hop stars Atmosphere and P.O.S. It was the first time a rap act headlined the St. Paul festival.

That it happened to be local rappers, and about 10,000 hometown fans showed up to see them, was a true reboot of the Taste of Minnesota brand name.

"I was watching the School of Rock kids play earlier, and they're better than any musicians I know," he told the crowd. (The school is one of several new family-oriented Taste attractions, also including Circus Juventas and kids' music singers.)

Atmosphere showed how much it has grown up musically since it last played Harriet Island during the 2008 Republican National Convention. Songs such as "Modern Man's Hustle" and "Painting" had a new, mature blues-guitar flavor, and the pro-Minnesota classic "Shhh!" was perfectly chosen for the occasion. It made a good bookend to Communist Daughter's own would-be state anthem, "Minnesota Girls," at the start of the day.

Friday wasn't just for hip-hop kids and locals, though. British bandleader James Hunter had a club-sized audience of middle-aged fans dancing to his slinky retro soul and R&B.

Also new and unexpected at Taste this year: sushi from Crave restaurant, and carnitas tacos and elote (Mexican street corn) from Barrio. However, diners still had some of the old beefs, including complaints over the math-challenging ticketing method for concessions (as in, $5 for the eight-ticket sheets, but 10 tickets for one beer).

"The selection is definitely better, but the portions are small and the whole ticket-buying thing is annoying," said Laura Henderson, 29, of Fridley, who came with her husband, John, primarily for Atmosphere and the other bands -- not the fair-like atmosphere. John came to Taste as a kid but stayed away for over a decade.

Taste of Minnesota continues Saturday with some old flavor: Classic-rocker Sammy Hagar headlines. Sunday features Counting Crows, and Monday has 311 and the Offspring. Fireworks will only go off on the 4th this year. The new admission charge is $20 before 4 p.m. and $30 after, for ages 13-64.

Read fuller reviews of Taste's opening day sets at startribune.com/music.