Retreats: People are 'the secrets and splendor'

A Minnesota native savors the quiet pleasures of running an Italian bed-and-breakfast.

February 8, 2009 at 5:30AM
Only one hour southwest of Milan, La Rocca is a remote and peaceful outpost in the Italy's Piedmont region. The Bonannis live on the second floor and run the first floor as a bed and breakfast.
Only one hour southwest of Milan, La Rocca is a remote and peaceful outpost in the Italy's Piedmont region. The Bonannis live on the second floor and run the first floor as a bed and breakfast. (Special to the Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

When Robbinsdale native Tracey Reinertson Bonanni went to Milan to study for a semester, her grandmother warned her not to meet a tall, dark, handsome Italian and never come back. Twenty years later, Bonanni says she wouldn't want to be anywhere else but Vignale, the rustic hilltop town in Italy's Piedmont region where she lives with her husband, Alessandro, and their two children. "I never thought to stay permanently until I discovered it was much easier for me to be here than for Alessandro to be [in Minnesota,]" she said. "Vignale truly became home when we bought our house here 13 years ago." The first floor of the renovated farmhouse is a bed-and-breakfast, called La Rocca, which Tracey runs (www.laroccaitalia.com). The Bonannis also own a vineyard, and guests are welcome to help grow, harvest and produce their Barbera wine. We talked to Tracey about what she loves most about her work and her adopted hometown.

Q How did you get the idea to start a B&B?

A Since the very first time Alessandro brought me to this area I had a dream of a B&B or a place where friends, students, family and fellow travelers could come, mainly because this area is still so unknown compared to Tuscany and other famous parts of Italy. And it's hard to discover all of its secrets and splendor unless you know the people. In fact, the people and their life, lifestyle and traditions are the secrets and splendor of Piedmont.

Q Do you have a high season? What's life like for you and your family during that time?

A High season is between Easter and Thanksgiving. And during this time we're still engulfed in vineyard work. When guests are here they can really get involved with our activities. In fact, I'm usually booked well in advance come September when guests guess on the time of our vendemmia (grape harvest) and want to partake of this great tradition. It's really incredible sharing this experience with guests who come to discover the new and unknown and get their hands dirty learning.

Q What do you like most about your job as an innkeeper?

A The guests themselves. I feel like I am blessed with a gift that I get to open and discover. Our guests truly become friends as we learn about them and share our enchanting [region] with them.

Q Why should someone visit Vignale?

A Vignale is as much about the people as it is about the place. Of course, it's absolutely beautiful and virtually untouched by the negatives of the world. But the people and their traditions, passions and lifestyles are what make Vignale truly beautiful. I compare life here to slow food vs. fast food. Life is like a 12-course meal lasting hours and hours with great company and great wines.

Elizabeth Larsen • 612-673-7110

Tracey Bonanni never imaged she'd move permanently to rural Italy. But when her husband, Alessandro, felt like too much of a fish out of water in the Twin Cities, she decided it was worth a try. Twenty years later she's still there. The couple is pictured with their children Nico and Eleanora.
Tracey Bonanni never imaged she'd move permanently to rural Italy. But when her husband, Alessandro, felt like too much of a fish out of water in the Twin Cities, she decided it was worth a try. Twenty years later she's still there. The couple is pictured with their children Nico and Eleanora. (Special to the Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)
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ELIZABETH LARSEN, Star Tribune

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